Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
It was not until about the year 1860 that elastic web weaving was
introduced into this country, although for a number of years previous
England and Germany, and also France in a small way, had found here a
market for their product, particularly in cords, braids and shoe goring,
which at that particular time was fast growing in popularity. About
1860, a few looms which had been used, were brought over from England
and located at Easthampton, Mass., and the manufacture of shoe goring
commenced. The rubber thread required was for some time imported from
England. The business grew rapidly, and factories were established in
a number of cities, more particularly at Boston, Lowell and Brockton,
Mass., Bridgeport, Conn., and Camden, N. J. An unfortunate labor dispute
took place about the year 1890, which developed into a long-drawn out
strike, ultimately precipitating friction between the shoe trade and the
goring web manufacturers, which finally ended in a positive boycott of
this product from which the trade has never recovered. Most of the looms
which were up to this time devoted to shoe goring have been remodeled and
are now used in the making of other types of elastic fabrics. In passing,
it may be interesting to note that some of the looms originally brought
from England 60 years ago are still in operation and doing excellent work
along other lines.
ATTEMPTS TO USE WIDE LOOMS
Attempts have been made from time to time to weave elastics on wide
looms, the cloth being divided at intervals by open spaces in the warps
at the front reed, at either side of which spaces binding threads were
woven in. These narrow strips were spaced in the front reed according to
the different widths which might be required, and could easily be changed
to meet the varying requirements by redrawing a few threads, inasmuch
as the whole weave was uniform throughout the full width of the cloth.
Between these spaces, but at a point away from the weaving line, were
arranged stationary knives by which the cloth was cut into the requisite
widths while it was being woven, and as it gradually passed by the knife
edges. These knives were so arranged that they could be adjusted to new
positions when it became necessary to change the widths of the individual
strips.
While this method was more economical than weaving individual webs in
gang looms, the labor cost being much less, the narrow webs produced
having the cut selvages lacked the finished appearance which the
individually woven webs had. And sometimes the binding threads would
give way, so that the fabrics were not well received by the trade, and
ultimately the demand for them died out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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