Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
The round edge or covering for the outside rubber threads is drawn in the
harness on the upper shed, and while being woven this cloth is pulled
around the rubbers by the tension of the filling which is carried in the
lower shuttle. This tension is greater than that carried in the upper
shuttle, and so asserts itself by pulling the edge cloth around the
outside rubber until it meets the back cloth weave. The upper and lower
fillings are connected by what are known as tie threads. These threads
are drawn in the harness at each side of the body warp, next to the
edge, and are part of the binder warp. They are operated from the binder
harness, but are only allowed to travel through the lower shed as far as
the center of the web, instead of going all through both sheds, as do
the balance of the binder warp. This movement is accomplished by the use
of long looped harness eyes, which only carry these particular threads
through the one shed.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Effective Combination of Weaves In a Fine Web]
[Illustration: Figs. 2 and 3.—Sunken Effects]
[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Position of Rolls in Relation to Breast Beam for
Cross Shot Weaving]
The binder movement, extending through the two sheds, is formed by a
longer sweep from extra throw cams, or by the use of extended cam jacks,
or by a combination of both. The balance of these goods may be regulated
both by the warp and the filling, and any tendency towards curling may be
corrected by changing the weight of stock used on either.
USE OF DIFFERENT STOCKS AND COLORS
The use of upper and lower fillings also allows for the use of different
grades of stock in either shuttle. Colors may be used to match the face
warps while white may be carried in the lower shuttle to match the back.
Silk or other expensive stock may be used for the face without changing
the character of the stock used for the back of the goods, which is not
practicable in single shuttle work.
All this of course makes it possible to reduce the cost, making this
the most economical web produced. In the making of shoe goring, a
considerable quantity of which is still used for inserts for house
slippers, this is a very popular form of weaving, allowing for the
production of a face having a velvet-like pile of the color to match the
shoe leather, while the back may be perfectly plain and white.
It is a method employed in combination with the jacquard, where fancy
figures may be obtained on the face, using the cam movement for the back,
binder and edge, the weave of which is the same for all of these warps,
being simply a one up and one down. In such a combination the labor on
the jacquard movement is much reduced, inasmuch as the travel of the
lingo is much shorter than is required when made in connection with
single shuttle.
THE OVERSHOT METHOD
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