The wide range of goods of this character, covering so many varied uses, makes it impracticable to particularize on any special construction. In the making of braids and Vienna cords, the general methods are much the same as those described for braiding the round cords, except that the travel of the carriers is different and the strands of rubber are fed up singly, instead of in a group, so that the carriers may pass in and out between them. A different machine is required for the various widths and number of strands of rubber used. Two carriers are required for each strand of rubber used and one over. For example, an eight strand braid requires 17 carriers, while a 10 strand requires 21, and so on. The width of the braid may be further regulated by the contraction of the goods determined upon and provided for in the take-up; also by the size and character of the material used for covering. On account of the diagonal formation of the covering threads when braiding, it will be seen that variable contraction of the web will produce variable widths. This is not so with a woven elastic fabric, inasmuch as the weft lies straight across the web and therefore the same width is maintained whether it is stretched or otherwise. In braiding, the threads move both across and lengthwise of the fabric, taking the place of both warp and filling, therefore increased contraction, no matter whether it is produced from the use of heavier rubber, or changed material or take-up, results in greater width, inasmuch as the lengthwise position of the threads is brought into a new position which is more of a crosswise formation. This diagonal lay of the covering threads opens up possibilities for very effective plaid effects, but this is the limit of color elaboration. A fancy frill effect may be obtained by the omission of rubber threads at the outer edges. CHAPTER XI. WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR _Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are Obtained—Cloth Construction_ Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away with much of this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable lengths. It is adapted to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance. Much labor in collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production. There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer part, with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining together of the two parts as formerly.