The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band, properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production of a variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric. HEAVY LOOM REQUIRED The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to withstand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the filling, where an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual piece must be carried. The looms which are now being used have from 12 to 16 pieces, so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid indeed properly to care for the weight carried on the combined pieces, and maintain uniform picking. In order also to get the requisite shed opening, the strain on the cams and cam jacks is severe, so that provision for ample strength at these parts is essential. CONE-SHAPED TAKE-UP ROLL The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a cone-shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1 inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight roll, which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the slack delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of the swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight roll to set in proper position over the cone. At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1 [Transcriber’s Note: It’s possible that a line of text was missing here from the original printing, as the sentence doesn’t make complete sense] the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over which the cloth passes. WOVEN IN THREE WIDTHS The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4¼ inches, 4¾ inches and 5¼ inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so as to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed over these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side of the web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into sections and carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect clearance in the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly. THE WEAVE The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face, back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face and 4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one.