WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR 4¼ Inch 4¾ Inch 5¼ Inch No. of Threads Weight No. of Threads No. of Threads Warps (60/2) Carried Warps (60/2) Warps (60/2) Face 2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119 Face 2 82 7 lbs. each 2 92 2 104 Back 1 198 13 lbs. each 1 218 2 238 Back 1 164 12 lbs. each 1 184 2 208 Binder 1 99 10 lbs. each 1 109 1 119 Binder 1 78 7 lbs. each 1 88 1 100 Gut 2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119 Gut 2 78 7 lbs. each 2 88 2 100 It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for 2 back and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which will allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads straight and confined to the limitations of space available. [Illustration: Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth] METHOD OF REEDING The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a 26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next, splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier, and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching process. [Illustration: Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar] The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position of the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of the collar desired. There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P. yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached afterwards. Knitted Narrow Fabrics By WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A. _Branch of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Yarn Testing—Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for Wires and Cables, Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for Trimmings—Use of Core Thread to Give Strength_