I visited many of the churches, but found them sadly shorn of their former splendour, having in them only a few aged priests, and, excepting on particular days, a very limited number of devotees: the passers-by rarely lift their hats and make the sign of the cross, as they were wont to do, when passing the sacred doors; the same neglect is apparent when the vesper-bell strikes a few slow and solemn sounds at the decline of day. Formerly, when its tones were heard, every kind of labour and amusement were instantly suspended, every head was uncovered, a silent thanksgiving offered to the Giver of all good for mercies received during the day, and His divine aid and protection were implored for the ensuing night. Now, almost every species of religious observance has departed, in the overthrow of a notoriously debauched and overgrown priesthood. The population of Rio is estimated from one hundred and twenty to two hundred thousand, of which a very large proportion are blacks. No correct census has yet been taken, owing to the jealousy of the people, who suppose that the object of government is to impose, in such an estimate, a capitation tax. There is a great admixture of blood among them, from the jet black African with his curly wool, to the pure white with flaxen locks. The _French residents_ are numerous, if a traveller may judge from the names on the signs, and the endless _Parisian nothings_ exposed for sale in the Rua d’Ovidor and the Rua d’Quitanda. Here and there are interspersed English, German, or Italian names. Since the abdication of the late emperor in favour of his little son Don Pedro the second, and the breaking up of his splendid court, numerous carriages have disappeared, and only a few humble volantes or cabriolets are seen drawn by two mules, or perhaps by a horse and a mule. The _National Museum_ is situated on each side of the Campo d’Acclamacao, and is open to the public on Thursdays. It occupies at present but three rooms, having been sadly plundered of its contents by Don Pedro. The specimens of minerals are numerous and scientifically arranged; but the entomological department is meager, considering the immense numbers and beautiful varieties of insects for which this country is so justly celebrated: there are many private collections in the city which far surpass this, in numbers and brilliancy. In addition to the abovenamed department are several cases, divided into compartments, showing, in miniature, implements of trade and manufactures. The _Senate House_, on the opposite side of the square, is a very plain edifice, badly built, and propped up in every direction with long pieces of timber.