Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
The Manchu is attached to his native land; he loves to live in the open,
and is never so happy as when galloping across the endless plain or
hunting in the virgin forests. As we laboriously proceeded on the uneven
road, my fancy had full play, and I received new ideas and impressions
from these novel surroundings. Since I had explored the interior of the
country more carefully, my ideas about Manchuria had certainly undergone
a great change. Every now and then, however, my cogitations were rudely
interrupted as we jumped over ditches, crawled up or ran down the
inclines, and it was a wonder that my poor _tarantass_ was not smashed
in the attempt. It may be as well, perhaps, to give some idea of what a
_tarantass_ is like. Four small wheels, very far apart, and joined by
wooden axles, were fixed in the centre to a long pole, on which the
basket, in shape something between a boat and a bath, was fastened. The
vibration of this pole takes the place of springs, although it would be
incorrect to say that it performed the office of such civilized
improvements. But the pole kept the wheels and the basket together, and
this, after all, is an accomplishment to be proud of on the highroads of
Asia. My carriage was not drawn by mules this time, but I had three
horses harnessed abreast, in the Muscovite style. They were small
Cossack horses, with long manes and tails, slightly larger than Shetland
ponies, strong and lively. The middle one was somewhat bigger than the
two others; it could trot, while the ponies to the right and left of it
had to gallop all the time, their heads gracefully arched and held a
little to one side. The harness was most eccentric, and consisted of
straps without number, the use of which it was difficult to see, but the
silver-nailed mountings, studded in Eastern fashion, looked decidedly
picturesque.
My coachman was a Cossack, and evidently very much impressed with the
importance of his mission. About fifteen men formed the escort, their
white blouses and flat white caps forming a striking feature in the
landscape. They are good-natured, simple-minded folk, these mujiks, with
bright blue eyes, clear complexion, and a childlike expression. They are
evidently quite at home in this far-away country, for the ways of life
in their native land are primitive and patriarchal, and differ but
little from those in this foreign land. It is difficult to believe that
these men can ever be cruel, and in time of war commit the greatest
atrocities in cold blood and almost unconsciously. When the war is over
they at once make friends with the conquered people, and freely mix with
the yellow tribes. A little two-wheeled cart, containing provisions, and
with a young Cossack as driver, completed my escort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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