Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
If I were asked what were the most striking objects I passed on the
road, I should mention two pagodas, one of which is particularly
beautiful, seven storeys high, and richly carved. Monsters of Chinese
mythology and all the embellishments which the sickly imagination of
that ancient race could devise, have been lavishly represented upon it.
We also passed some remarkable commemorative stones--massive blocks,
resting on enormous tortoises--on which are inscribed the exploits of
the defunct heroes of the country. The many farms on our route testified
to the agricultural resources of the land, and the villages are not
without interest from a sociological point of view. The houses are very
shabby and dilapidated, but what amused me was the number of children
there were playing about. There did not seem to be room enough to
contain them all, and there were hardly any doors to be seen; the
population appears to jump out of the ground like mushrooms. We met
carts of various descriptions, pedestrians, strange equipages, and
stranger horsemen, and to finish up with, a mandarin travelling in
state. This personage was carried in a litter covered with embroidered
silk, and the luggage packed, in cases of wonderful lacquer-work, was
carried by his men on their backs. Suite and servants followed him in
single file, and all the emblems of his dignity, flags, Chinese
lanterns, umbrellas, and banners, with various inscriptions, were
carried before him. His Excellency was guarded by a detachment of native
soldiers, in crimson mantles with lozenge-shaped pieces of velvet let in
at the front and back, and elaborately embroidered with Chinese
characters. Of course, many of the details of this show were very
shabby. The canopy of the litter was torn and faded, the velvet of the
uniforms was caked with mud, the banners were in rags, and yet as a
whole it was one of the most artistic displays I have ever seen.
Asiatics certainly have the knack of making their pageants effective. A
mandarin of secondary order, visiting a functionary about equal in rank
to a tax-collector, has an escort of followers and soldiers amounting
to several dozen men, while the highest Western officials are content
with two footmen behind their carriage on grand occasions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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