From the ancient civilizations of Babylon and Assyria no fragments of
embroidery, nor even of woven stuffs, have come down to us. The fine
series of wall-reliefs from Nineveh in the British Museum give some idea
of the geometrical and floral patterns and diapers which adorned the
robes of the ancient Assyrians. The discovery of the ruins of the palace
of Darius I. (521-485 B.C.) at Susa in 1885 has thrown some light upon
the textile art of the ancient Persians. They evidently owed much to the
nations whom they had supplanted. The famous relief from this palace
(now in the Louvre) represents a procession of archers, wearing long
robes covered with small diaper patterns, perhaps of embroidery.
The exact significance of the words used in the book of Exodus in
describing the robes of Aaron (ch. xxviii.) and the hangings and
ornaments of the Tabernacle (ch. xxvi.) cannot be determined, and the
"broidered work" of the prophecy of Ezekiel (ch. xxvii.) at a later time
is also of uncertain meaning. It seems likely that much of this ancient
work was of the tapestry class, such as we have found in the early
fragments from Thebes.
The methods of the ancient Greek embroiderer, or "variegator" ([Greek:
poikiltês]) to whom woven garments were submitted for enrichment, can
only be conjectured. The _peplos_ or woven cloth made every fifth year
to cover or shade the statue of Athena in the Parthenon at Athens, and
carried at the Panathenaic festival,[2] was ornamented with the battles
of the gods and giants. The late Dr J.H. Middleton thought that very
possibly most of the elaborate work upon these _peploi_ was done by the
needle. That true embroidery, in the modern sense--the decoration by
means of the needle of a finished woven material--was practised among
the ancient Greeks, has been demonstrated by the finding of some textile
fragments in graves in the Crimea; these are now in the Hermitage at St
Petersburg. One of them, of purple woollen material, from a tomb
assigned to the 4th century B.C., is embroidered in wools of different
colours with a man on horseback, honeysuckle ornament and tendrils.
Another woollen piece, attributed to the following century, has a stem
and arrow-head leaves worked in gold thread.[3]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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