In turning to ancient Rome, it is well first briefly to notice Pliny's
account of the craft (_Nat. Hist._ viii.), as recording the views
current in Rome at his time (1st century A.D.). After relating that
Homer mentions embroidered garments (_pictas vestes_), he states that
the Phrygians first used the needle for embroidered robes, which were
thence called Phrygionian (_Phrygioniae_), and that Attalic garments
were named from Attalus II., king of Pergamum (159-138 B.C.), the
inventor of the art of embroidering in gold. He further relates that
Babylon gave the name to embroideries of divers colours, for the
production of which that city was famous. By the Romans the art was
designated as "painting with the needle" (_acu pingere_), a term used by
Virgil in speaking of the decoration of robes, by Ovid (who describes it
as an art taught by Minerva), and by Roman writers generally when
referring to embroidery.[4] It is to be regretted that no examples have
been discovered in the neighbourhood of the Roman capital. For
embroideries made under Roman influence we must again look to Egypt.
They formed the decoration of garments[5] and mummy-wrappings from the
cemeteries in Upper and Middle Egypt, which have been so extensively
rifled of late years. Those of Roman type date approximately from the
first five centuries of the Christian era. The earliest represent human
figures, animals, birds, geometrical and interlacing ornaments, vases,
fruit, flowers and foliage (especially the vine). They are generally
done in purple wool and undyed linen thread by the tapestry process
employed in Egypt at least fifteen centuries earlier, as we have seen;
most of the patterns have had the lines more clearly marked out by the
ordinary method of needlework. Towards the end of this period a greater
choice of colours is seen, and Christian symbols appear. At this time
examples worked entirely upon the finished web are found (fig. 2). The
transition is easy from such work to the veritable "needle-paintings,"
representing scenes from the gospels, produced in Egypt shortly after
(fig. 3). Such embroideries are evidently akin to those mentioned by
Bishop Asterius (330-410), who describes the garments worn by effeminate
Christians as painted like the walls of their houses.[6]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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