From the time of Justinian (527-565) onwards for some centuries, the art
of Europe, embroidery with the rest, was dominated by that of the
Byzantine empire. To trace the progress of the highly conventionalized
Byzantine style, becoming more rigid and stereotyped as time passes,
belongs to the general history of art, and such a task cannot be
attempted here. Perhaps the most remarkable example of all which have
survived to illustrate the work of the Byzantine embroiderers is the
blue silk robe known as the dalmatic of Charlemagne or of Leo III., in
the sacristy of St Peter's at Rome (fig. 4). According to the present
consensus of opinion it belongs to a later time than either of those
dignitaries, dating most probably from the 12th century.[7] In front is
represented Christ enthroned as Judge of the world, a youthful but
majestic figure; on the back is the Transfiguration. These, as well as
the minor subjects, are explained by Greek inscriptions. The wide
influence of Byzantine art gradually died out after the Latin sack of
Constantinople in the year 1204, although the style lingered, and
lingers still, in certain localities, notably at Mount Athos.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Embroidered panel from a linen garment, with a
representation of the Annunciation and the Salutation. Found in a
cemetery in Egypt. Coptic work of the 6th or 7th century A.D.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Embroidered panel from a linen garment, with a
jewelled cross and two birds within a wreath. Found in a cemetery at
Akhmim, Upper Egypt. Egypto-Roman work of the 4th or 5th century A.D.]
Palermo in Sicily succeeded Byzantium as the capital of the arts in
Europe, although its ascendancy was of brief duration. Under the Norman
kings of Sicily the style was strongly oriental, consequent upon the
earlier occupation of the island by the Saracens, and upon the
employment of Saracenic craftsmen by the Normans. The magnificent red
silk mantle at Vienna, embroidered in gold thread with a date-palm and
two lions springing upon camels, and enriched with pearls and enamel
plaques, bears round the edge an Arabic inscription, recording that it
was made in the royal factory of the capital of Sicily (Palermo) in the
year 528 (= A.D. 1134). At that time Roger, the first Norman king, was
on the throne. Another of the imperial coronation-robes--a linen alb
with gold embroidery--is also at Vienna.[8] An inscription in Latin and
Arabic states that it was made in the year 1181, under the reign of
William II. (Norman king of Sicily, 1166-1189).
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Embroidered robe known as the "Dalmatic of
Charlemagne," or of Leo III., preserved in the sacristy of St Peter's at
Rome. Byzantine work, probably of the 12th century.]
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