Some fragments of metallic embroidery on silk, of the 12th and 13th
centuries, may be seen in the library of Worcester cathedral. They were
removed from the coffins of two bishops, William de Blois (1218-1236)
and Walter de Cantelupe (1236-1266). A fragment of gold embroidery from
the tomb of the latter bishop is preserved in the Victoria and Albert
Museum at South Kensington, and others are in the British Museum. In the
13th century English embroidery was famous throughout western Europe,
and many embroidered objects are described in inventories of that time
as being _de opere anglicano_. During that century, and the early part
of the next, English work was at its best. The most famous example is
the "Syon cope" at South Kensington, belonging to the latter half of the
13th century (see COPE, Plate I. fig. 2). It represents the coronation
of the Virgin, the Crucifixion, the archangel Michael transfixing the
dragon, the death and burial of the Virgin, our Lord meeting Mary
Magdalene in the garden, the Apostles and the hierarchies of angels. The
broad orphrey is embroidered with a series of heraldic shields (Plate
II. fig. 9). Other embroideries of the period are at Steeple Aston,
Chesterfield (Col. Butler-Bowden), Victoria and Albert and British
museums, Rome (St John Lateran), Bologna, Pienza, Anagni, Ascoli, St
Bertrand de Comminges, Lyons museum, Madrid (archaeological museum),
Toledo and Vich.
During the course of the 14th and 15th centuries embroideries produced
in England were not equal to the earlier work. Towards the end of the
latter century, and until the dissolution of the monasteries in the
next, much ecclesiastical embroidery of effective design was done, and
many examples are still to be seen in churches throughout the country.
In the Tudor period the costumes of the wealthy were often richly
adorned with needlework. The portraits of King Henry VIII., Queen
Elizabeth and their courtiers show how magnificent was the embroidery
used for such purposes. Many examples, especially of the latter reign,
worked with very effective and beautiful floral patterns, have come down
to these times. A kind of embroidery known as "black work", done in
black silk on linen, was popular during the same reign. A tunic
embroidered for Queen Elizabeth, with devices copied from contemporary
woodcuts, is an excellent example of this work. It now belongs to the
Viscount Falkland. Another class of work, popular at the same time, was
closely worked in wools and silks on open-mesh material like canvas,
which was entirely covered by the embroidery. Figures in rich costume
were often introduced (Plate I. fig. 6). This method was much practised
in France, and the term applied to it in that country, "_au petit
point_," has become generally used. Throughout the 17th and 18th
centuries embroidery in England, though sometimes lacking in good taste,
maintained generally a high standard, and that done to-day, based on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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