German embroidery of the 12th and 13th centuries adheres closely to the
traditions of Byzantine art. A peculiarity of much medieval German work
is a tendency to treat the draperies of the figures as flat surfaces to
be covered with diaper patterns, showing no folds. A cope from
Hildesheim cathedral, now in the Victoria and Albert Museum, is a
typical illustration of such work, dating from the end of the 13th
century. It is embroidered in silk upon linen with the martyrdom of
apostles and saints. Other specimens of embroidery in this manner may be
seen at Halberstadt. An altar-frontal from Rupertsburg (Bingen),
belonging to the earlier years of the 13th century, is now in the
Brussels museum. It is of purple silk, embroidered with Christ in
majesty and figures of saints. It was no doubt made in the time of
Siegfried, archbishop of Mainz (1201-1230), who is represented upon it.
A type of medieval German embroidery is done in white linen thread on a
loose linen ground--a sort of darning-work (Plate II. fig. 10). Earlier
specimens of this work are often diversified by using a variety of
stitches tending to form diaper patterns. The use of long scrolling
bands with inscriptions explaining the subjects represented is more
usual in German work than in that of any other country. In the 15th
century much fine embroidery was produced in the neighbourhood of
Cologne. Later German work shows a preference for bold floral patterns,
sometimes mingled with heraldry; the larger examples are often worked in
wool on a woollen cloth ground (Plate II. fig. 8). The embroidery of the
northern nations (Denmark, Scandinavia, Iceland) was later in
development than that of the southern peoples. Figure subjects evidently
belonging to as late a period as the 17th century are still disposed in
formal rows of circles, and accompanied by primitive ornamental forms
(Plate III. fig. 12). A remarkable early embroidered fabric covers the
relics of St Knud (Canute, king of Denmark, 1080-1086) in his shrine in
the church dedicated to him at Odense. It is apparently contemporary
work. The pattern consists of displayed eagles within oval compartments,
in blue on a red ground.
In Greece and the islands of the eastern Mediterranean embroidery has
been much employed for the decoration of costumes, portières and
bed-curtains. Large numbers have been acquired in Crete (Plate IV. fig.
16), and patterns of a distinctive character are also found in Rhodes,
Cos, Patmos and other islands. Some examples show traces of the
influence of the Venetian trading settlements in the archipelago in the
16th and 17th centuries. Among the Turks a great development of the arts
followed upon the conquest of Asia Minor and the Byzantine territory in
Europe. Their embroideries show a preference for floral forms--chiefly
roses, tulips, carnations and hyacinths--which are treated with great
decorative skill.
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