The use of embroidery in Asia--especially in India, China, Turkestan and
Persia--dates back to very early times. The conservatism of all these
peoples renders the date of surviving examples often difficult to
establish, but the greater number of such embroideries now to be seen in
Europe are certainly of no great age.
India has produced vast quantities of embroideries of varying
excellence. The fine woollen shawls of Kashmir are widely famed; their
first production is supposed to date back to a remote period. The
somewhat gaudy effect of many Indian embroideries is at times
intensified by the addition of beetles' wings, tinsel or fragments of
looking-glass. China is the original home of the silkworm, and the
textile arts there reached an advanced stage at a date long before that
of any equally skilful work in Europe. Embroideries worked there are
generally in silk threads on a ground of the same material. Such work is
largely used for various articles of costume, and for coverlets,
screens, banners, chair-covers and table-hangings. The ornaments upon
the robes especially are prescribed according to the rank of the wearer.
The designs include elaborate landscapes with buildings and figures,
dragons, birds, animals, symbolic devices, and especially flowers (Plate
III. fig. 11). Dr Bushell states that the stuff to be embroidered is
first stretched upon a frame, on pivots, and that pattern-books with
woodcuts have been published for the workers' guidance. A kind of
embroidery exported in large quantities from Canton to Europe rivals
painting in the variety and gradation of its colours, and in the
smoothness and regularity of its surface.
Embroidery in Japan resembles in many ways that of China, the country
which probably supplied its first models. As a general rule, Japanese
work is more pictorial and fanciful than that of China, and the
stitching is looser. It frequently happens that the brush has been used
to add to the variety of the embroidered work, and in other cases the
needle has been an accessory upon a fabric already ornamented with
printing or painting. Japanese work is characterized generally by bold
and broad treatment, and especial skill is shown in the representation
of landscapes--figures, rocks, waterfalls, animals, birds, trees,
flowers and clouds being each rendered by a few lines. More elaborate
are the large temple hangings, the pattern being frequently thrown into
relief, and completely covering the ground material.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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