AUTHORITIES.--Vincent A. Smith, _The Early History of India_ (Oxford,
1904, 2nd ed., 1908); and _Asoka_ ("Rulers of India" series, Oxford,
1901); J. W. McCrindle, _Ancient India_ (1901); T. W. Rhys Davids,
_Buddhist India_ (1903); _Imperial Gazetteer of India_ (1907-1909);
Sir J. Campbell, _Gazetteer of Bombay_ (1896); Stanley Lane-Poole,
_Medieval India_ ("Story of the Nations" series, 1903); _The
Mohammedan Dynasties_ (1894) and _The Mogul Emperors_ (1892); H. C.
Fanshawe, _Delhi Past and Present_ (1902); Sir H. M. Elliot, _History
of India as told by its own Historians_ (1867). For the "unrest," its
causation and history, see the series of articles in _The Times_,
beginning July 16, 1910. (W. W. H.; J. S. Co.)
INDIAN COSTUME
Personal attire in India so far resembles a uniform that a resident can
tell from a garb alone the native place, religion and social standing of
the wearer. This is still true, though the present facility of
intercommunication has had its effect in tending to assimilate the
appearance of natives. Together with costume it is necessary to study
the methods of wearing the hair, for each race adopts a different
method.
The population of India, of which the main divisions are religious,
falls naturally into four groups, (1) Mahommedans, (2) Hindus, (3)
Sikhs, (4) Parsees. To these may be added aboriginal races such as
Bhils, Sonthals, Gonds, &c., whose costume is chiefly noticeable from
its absence.
_Mahommedan Men._--Apart from the two sects, Sunnis and Shias, whose
garb differs in some respects, there are four families of Moslems, viz.
Pathans, Moguls, Syeds and Sheiks. The first came to India with Sultan
Mahmud Ghaznavi in A.D. 1002; the second are of Tatar origin and came to
India with Baber; the Syeds claim descent from Mahomet, while Sheiks
comprise all other Mussulmans, including converted Hindus. It is now no
longer possible to distinguish these families by their turbans as was
formerly the case.
_Hair._--In the _hadis_, or traditional sayings of Mahomet other than
those to be found in the Koran, it is laid down that the head is to be
shaved and the beard to be allowed to grow naturally to "a legal"
length, i.e. 7 or 8 in. long. This is known as _fitrah_ or the custom of
prophets. The beard is frequently dyed with henna and indigo for much
the same reasons as in Europe by elderly men; this is entirely optional.
The wearing of whiskers while shaving the chin was a Mogul fashion of
the 17th and 18th centuries and is now seldom seen except among Deccani
Mahommedans. The mustachios must not grow below the line of the upper
lip, which must be clearly seen; a division or parting is made below the
nose. The lower lip is also carefully kept clear. Hair under the arms or
elsewhere on the body except the breast is always removed.
Mahommedan clothing for indoor wear consists of three pieces: (a)
Head-dress, (b) body-covering, (c) covering for the legs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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