_Head-dress._--This is of two kinds: the turban and the cap. The former is chiefly worn in northern India, the latter in Oudh and the United Provinces. What is known in Europe as a turban (from the Persian _sarband_, a binding for the head) is in India divided into two classes. The first, made of a single piece of cloth 20 to 30 in. wide and from 6 to 9 yds. long, is bound round the head from right to left or from left to right indifferently and quite simply, so as to form narrow angles over the forehead and at the back. This form is called _amamah_ (Arabic), _dastar_ (Persian), _shimla_ or _shamla_, _safa_, _lungi_, _sela_, _rumal_, or _dopatta_. The terms _amamah_ and _dastar_ are used chiefly with reference to the turbans of priests and _ulema_, that is learned and religious persons. They are usually white; formerly Syeds wore them of green colour. They are never of bright hue. The _lungi_ is made of cloth of a special kind manufactured mostly in Ludhiana. It is generally blue and has an ornamented border. In the case of Pathans and sometimes of Punjabi Moslems it is bound round a tall red conical cap called a _kullah_ (Plate I. fig. 1). The ends are frequently allowed to hang down over the shoulders, and are called _shimla_ or _shamla_, terms which also apply to the whole head-dress. The names _safa_, _sela_, _rumal_ and _dopatta_ are sometimes given to this form of turban. The _sela_ is gaudier and more ornamental generally; it is worn by the nobles and wealthier classes. The second form of the turban is known as the _pagri_.[12] This head-dress is of Hindu origin but is much worn by Mahommedans. It is a single piece of cloth 6 to 8 in. wide, and of any length from 10 to 50 yds. The methods of binding the _pagri_ are innumerable, each method having a distinctive name as _arabi_ (Arab fashion); _mansabi_ (official fashion, much used in the Deccan); _mushakhi_ (sheik fashion); _chakridar_ (worn by hadjis, that is those who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca); _khirki-dar_ (a fashion of piling the cloth high, adopted by retainers of great men); _latudar_ (top-shaped, worn by _kayasths_ or writers); _joridar_ (the cloth twisted into rope shape) (Plate I. fig. 6); _siparali_ (shield-shaped, worn by the Shia sect); _murassa_, or _nastalikh_ (ornately bound), _latpati_ (carelessly bound) (Plate I. fig. 4). Many other fashions which it would be difficult to describe can best be learned by studying pictures with the help of a competent teacher. The _chira_ is a pagri of checked cloth. The _mandil_ is of gold or highly ornamented cloth; it is worn by nobles and persons of distinction.