For the upper part of the body the principal article of clothing is the _kurta_. The Persian name for this is _pairahan_ and the Arabic _kamis_, whence "chemise." This _kurta_ is the equivalent for the shirt of Europe. It is usually of white cotton, and has the opening or _gala_ in front, at the back, or on either side indifferently. It was formerly fastened with strings, but now with the _ghundi_ (the old form of button) and _tukmah_ or loop. In southern India, Gujarat and in the United Provinces the _kurta_ is much the same as to length and fit as the English shirt; as the traveller goes northward from Delhi to the Afghan border he sees the _kurta_ becoming longer and looser till he finds the Pathan wearing it almost to his ankles, with very full wide sleeves. The sleeves are everywhere long and are sometimes fastened with one or two buttons at the wrist. Mussulmans always wear some form of trousers. They are known as _izar_ (Arabic) or _pa'ejáma_[13] (Persian). This article of clothing is sometimes loose, sometimes tight all the way, sometimes loose as far as the knee and tight below like Jodhpur riding breeches. They are fastened round the waist with a scarf or string called _kamarband_ (waistband) or _izarband_, and are usually of white cotton. The varieties of cut are sharai or canonical, orthodox, which reach to the ankles and fit as close to the leg as European trousers; _rumi_ or _ghararedar_, which reach to the ankles but are much wider than European trousers (this pattern is much worn by the Shias); and _tang_ or _chust_, reaching to the ankles, from which to the knee they fit quite close. When this last kind is "rucked" at the ankle it is called _churidar_ (Plate I. fig. 4). They are sometimes buttoned at the ankle, especially in the Meerut district. The _shalwar_ pattern, very large round the waist and hanging in folds, is worn by Pathans, Baluchis, Sindis, Multanis, &c. [Illustration: PLATE I. FIG. 1.--Punjabi Mahommedan wearing _lungi_ bound round a red or gold _kullah_. FIG. 2.--Mahommedan Saint, _pir_, wearing the _kantop_, ear-cap. FIG. 3.--Student of the Aligarh College wearing the _tarbush_. FIG. 4.--Punjabi Mahommedan wearing _pagri_, with _shimla_, _achkan izar_ or _paejamas_. FIG. 5.--Bombay or Gujarati Bora wearing white and gold turban with red top. FIG. 6.--Mahommedan Jat cultivators. Wife:--with _izar_, _kurta_, and _orhni_ or _chadar_; husband:--with _majba_, _chadar_, and _joridar pagri_. FIG. 7.--The Parsi _khoka_, a tall hat of glazed chintz. FIG. 8.--Parsi woman wearing Parsi _sari_ and _mathabana_ or white hair cover. FIG. 9.--Parsi schoolgirl. FIG. 10.--Parsi pith hat with felt brim. _From Pen and Ink Drawings by J. Lockwook Kipling, C.I.E._] [Illustration: PLATE II. FIG. 1.--Deccan Brahman wearing _pagri_, _dhoti_ or _pitamber_, _anga_ and _dopatta_.