FIG. 2.--Brahman wearing _dhoti_ and _janeo_ or sacred thread. This is
the dining and sacrificial dress of most Hindus.
FIG. 3.--Rajput wearing _chapkan_, which is worn both by Mussulmans
and Hindus, buttoning on different sides.
FIG. 4.--Hindu woman showing method of wearing the _sari_.
FIG. 5.--Bengali _Babu_ wearing the most popular form of the
embroidered cap.
FIG. 6.--Sikh devotee, _Akali_ or _Nihung_, vowed to the wearing of
blue and steel, &c.
_From Pen and Ink Drawings by J. Lockwood Kipling, C.I.E._]
The new fashion in vogue amongst the younger generation of Mussulman is
called the _ikbarah_ or _patalunnuma_, which is like the European
trousers. They are usually made of calico; they have no buttons but are
fastened with string (kamarband). Bathing drawers are called _ghutannah_
and reach to the knee. The tight drawers worn by wrestlers are called
_janghiah_.
Garments for outdoor wear are the _anga_, or _angarkha_, the _chapkan_,
the _achkan_ or _sherwani_; the _anga_, a coat with full sleeves, is
made of any material, white or coloured. It is slit at the sides, has
perpendicularly cut side-pockets, and is fastened with strings just
below the breast. It is opened on the right or left side according to
local custom. The _anga_ is now considered old-fashioned, and is chiefly
worn by elderly men or religious persons. It is still not uncommon in
Delhi, Agra, Lucknow and at native courts, but is being superseded by
the _achkan_ (Plate I. fig. 4), which is buttoned straight down the
front. Both _anga_ and _achkan_ reach to a little below the knee, as
also does the _chapkan_, a relic of Mogul court dress, best known as the
shield-like and highly adorned coat worn by government _chaprasis_
(Plate II. fig. 3). Over the _anga_ is sometimes worn an overcoat called
a _choga_; this is made of any material, thick or thin, plain or
ornamented; it has one or two fastenings only, loops below the breast
whence it hangs loosely to below the knees. The _choga_ is sometimes
known by its Arabic names _aba_ or _kaba_, terms applied to it when worn
by priests or ulemas. In cold weather Pathans and other border residents
wear _posteens_, sleeved coats made of sheepskin with the woolly side
in. In India farther south in cold weather an overcoat called _dagla_ is
worn; this is an _anga_ padded with cotton wool. A padded _choga_ is
called _labada_; when very heavily padded _farghul_. Whereas the
European wears his waistcoat _under_ his coat, the Indian wears his
_over_ his _anga_ or _chapkan_ (not over the _achkan_). A sleeveless
waistcoat generally made of silk is called a _sadari_; when it has half
sleeves it is called _nimastin_; the full-sleeved waistcoat worn in
winter padded with cotton is called _mirzai_. For ceremonial purposes a
coat called _jama_ is worn. This fits closely as to the upper part of
the body, but flows loosely below the waist. It is generally white, and
is fastened in front by strings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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