The most approved fashion of weaving is called _tsuzure-ori_
(linked-weaving); that is to say, the cross threads are laid in with
the fingers and pushed into their places with a comb by hand, very
little machinery being used. The threads extend only to the outlines
of each figure, and it follows that every part of the pattern has a
rim of minute holes like pierced lines separating postage stamps in a
sheet, the effect being that the design seems to hang suspended in the
ground--linked into it, as the Japanese term implies.[3] A specimen of
this nature recently manufactured by Kawashima's weavers measured 20
ft. by 13, and represented the annual festival at the Nikko mausolea.
The chief shrine was shown, as were also the gate and the long flight
of stone steps leading up to it, several other buildings, the groves
of cryptomeria that surround the mausolea, and the festival
procession. All the architectural and decorative details, all the
carvings and colours, all the accessories--everything was wrought in
silk, and each of the 1500 figures forming the procession wore exactly
appropriate costume. Even this wealth of detail, remarkable as it was,
seemed less surprising than the fact that the weaver had succeeded in
producing the effect of atmosphere and aerial perspective. Through the
graceful cryptomerias distant mountains and the still more distant sky
could be seen, and between the buildings in the foreground and those
in the middle distance atmosphere appeared to be perceptible. Two
years of incessant labour with relays of artisans working steadily
throughout the twenty-four hours were required to finish this piece.
Naturally such specimens are not produced in large numbers. Next in
decorative importance to tsuzure-ori stands _yuzen birôdo_, commonly
known among English-speaking people as cut velvet. Dyeing by the
_yuzen_ process is an innovation of modern times. The design is
painted on the fabric, after which the latter is steamed, and the
picture is ultimately fixed by methods which are kept secret. The soft
silk known as _habutaye_ is a favourite ground for such work, but silk
crape also is largely employed. No other method permits the decorator
to achieve such fidelity and such boldness of draughtsmanship. The
difference between the results of the ordinary and the yuzen processes
of dyeing is, in fact, the difference between a stencilled sketch and
a finished picture. In the case of cut velvet, the yuzen process is
supplemented as follows: The cutter, who works at an ordinary wooden
bench, has no tool except a small sharp chisel with a V-shaped point.
This chisel is passed into an iron pencil having at the end guards,
between which the point of the chisel projects, so that it is
impossible for the user to cut beyond a certain depth. When the velvet
comes to him, it already carries a coloured picture permanently fixed
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account