by the yuzen process, but the wires have not been withdrawn. It is, in
fact, velvet that has passed through all the usual stages of
manufacture except the cutting of the thread along each wire and the
withdrawal of the wires. The cutting artist lays the piece of
unfinished velvet on his bench, and proceeds to carve into the pattern
with his chisel, just as though he were shading the lines of the
design with a steel pencil. When the pattern is lightly traced, he
uses his knife delicately; when the lines are strong and the shadows
heavy, he makes the point pierce deeply. In short, the little chisel
becomes in his fingers a painter's brush, and when it is remembered
that, the basis upon which he works being simply a thread of silk, his
hand must be trained to such delicacy of muscular effort as to be
capable of arresting the edge of the knife at varying depths within
the diameter of the tiny filament, the difficulty of the achievement
will be understood. Of course it is to be noted that the edge of the
cutting tool is never allowed to trespass upon a line which the
exigencies of the design require to be solid. The veining of a cherry
petal, for example, the tessellation of a carp's scales, the serration
of a leaf's edge--all these lines remain intact, spared by the
cutter's tool, while the leaf itself, or the petal, or the scales of
the fish, have the threads forming them cut so as to show the velvet
nap and to appear in soft, low relief. In one variety of this fabric,
a slip of gold foil is laid under each wire, and left in position
after the wire is withdrawn, the cutting tool being then used with
freedom in some parts of the design, so that the gold gleams through
the severed thread, producing a rich and suggestive effect. Velvet,
however, is not capable of being made the basis for pictures so
elaborate and microscopically accurate as those produced by the yuzen
process on silk crape or habutaye. The rich-toned, soft plumage of
birds or the magnificent blending of colours in a bunch of peonies or
chrysanthemums cannot be obtained with absolute fidelity on the ribbed
surface of velvet.
Embroidery.
The embroiderer's craft has been followed for centuries in Japan with
eminent success, but whereas it formerly ranked with dyeing and weaving,
it has now come to be regarded as an art. Formerly the embroiderer was
content to produce a pattern with his needle, now he paints a picture. So
perfectly does the modern Japanese embroiderer elaborate his scheme of
values that all the essential elements of pictorial effects--chiaroscuro,
aerial perspective and atmosphere are present in his work. Thus a
graceful and realistic school has replaced the comparatively stiff and
conventional style of former times.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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