Amongst modern Oriental nations we find almost every kind of personal
decoration, from the simple caste mark on the forehead of the Hindu to
the gorgeous examples of beaten gold and silver work of the various
cities and provinces of India. Nor are such decorations mere ornaments
without use or meaning. The hook with its corresponding perforation or
eye, the clasp, the buckle, the button, grew step by step into a special
ornament, according to the rank, means, taste and wants of the wearer,
or became an evidence of the dignity of office. Nor was the jewel deemed
to have served its purpose with the death of its owner, for it is to the
tombs of ancient peoples that we must look for evidence of the early
existence of the jeweller's art.
The jewelry of the ancient Egyptians has been preserved for us in their
tombs, sometimes in, and sometimes near the sarcophagi which contained
the embalmed bodies of the wearers. An amazing series of finds of the
intact jewels of five princesses of the XIIth Dynasty (c. 2400 B.C.) was
the result of the excavations of J. de Morgan at Dahshur in 1894-1895.
The treasure of Princess Hathor-Set contained jewels with the names of
Senwosri (Usertesen) II. and III., one of whom was probably her father.
The treasure of Princess Merit contained the names of the same two
monarchs, and also that of Amenemhe III., to whose family Princess
Nebhotp may have belonged. The two remaining princesses were Ita and
Khnumit.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
The art of the nameless Memphite jewellers of the XIIth Dynasty is
marked by perfect accuracy of execution, by sureness of intention, by
decorative instinct and sobriety in design, and by the serviceable
nature of the jewels for actual wear. All forms of work are
represented--including chiselling, soldering, inlaying with coloured
stones, moulding and working with twisted wires and filigree. Here
also occurs the earliest instance of granulated work, with small
grains of gold, soldered on a flat surface (fig. 1). The principal
items in this dazzling group are the following: Three gold pectorals
(fig. 2 and Plate I. figs. 35, 36) worked _à jour_ (with the
interstices left open); on the front side they are inlaid with
coloured stones, the fine _cloisons_ being the only portion of the
gold that is visible; on the back, the gold surfaces are most
delicately carved, in low relief. Two gold crowns (Plate I. figs. 32,
34), found together, are curiously contrasted in character. The one
(fig. 32) is of a formal design, of gold, inlaid (the plume, Plate I.
fig 33, was attached to it); the other (fig. 34) has a multitude of
star-like flowers, embodied in a filigree of daintily twisted wires. A
dagger with inlaid patterns on the handle shows extraordinary
perfection of finish.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
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