Rings are the chief specimens now seen of medieval jewelry from the 10th
to the 13th century. They are generally massive and simple. Through the
16th century a variety of changes arose; in the traditions and designs
of the _cinquecento_ we have plenty of evidence that the workmen used
their own designs, and the results culminated in the triumphs of Albert
Dürer, Benvenuto Cellini and Hans Holbein. The goldsmiths of the Italian
republics must have produced works of surpassing excellence in
workmanship, and reaching the highest point in design as applied to
handicrafts of any kind. The use of enamels, precious stones, niello
work and engraving, in combination with skilful execution of the human
figure and animal life, produced effects which modern art in this
direction is not likely to approach, still less to rival.
[Illustration: FIG. 30.]
In fig. 31 illustrations are given of various characteristic specimens
of the Renaissance and later forms of jewelry. A crystal cross set in
enamelled gold (a) is German work of the 16th century. The pendant
reliquary (b), enamelled and jewelled, is of 16th century Italian
work, and so probably is the jewel (c) of gold set with diamonds and
rubies. The Darnley or Lennox jewel (d), now in the possession of the
king, was made about 1576-1577 for Lady Margaret Douglas, countess of
Lennox, the mother of Henry Darnley. It is a pendant golden heart set
with a heart-shaped sapphire, richly jewelled and enamelled with
emblematic figures and devices. It also has Scottish mottoes around
and within it. The ear-ring (e) of gold, enamelled, hung with small
pearls, is an example of 17th century Russian work, and another (f) is
Italian of the same period, being of gold and filigree with enamel,
also with pendant pearls. A Spanish ear-ring, of 18th century work
(g), is a combination of ribbon, cord and filigree in gold; and
another (h) is Flemish, of probably the same period; it is of gold
open work set with diamonds in projecting collets. The old
French-Normandy pendant cross and locket (l) presents a characteristic
example of peasant jewelry; it is of branched open work set with
bosses and ridged ornaments of crystal. The ear-ring (j) is French of
17th century, also of gold open work set with crystals. A small
pendant locket (k) is of rock crystal, with the cross of Santiago in
gold and translucent crimson enamel; it is 16th or 17th century
Spanish work. A pretty ear-ring of gold open scroll work (m), set with
minute diamonds and three pendant pearls, is Portuguese of 17th
century, and another ear-ring (n) of gold circular open work, set also
with minute diamonds, is Portuguese work of 18th century. These
examples fairly illustrate the general features of the most
characteristic jewelry of the dates quoted.
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