Engraving is a simple process in itself, and diversity of effect can
be produced by skilful manipulation. An interesting variety in the
effect of a single ornament may be produced by the combination of
coloured gold of various tints. This colouring is a process requiring
skill and experience in the manipulation of the materials according to
the quality of the gold and the amount of silver alloy in it. The
objects to be coloured are dipped in a boiling mixture of salt, alum
and saltpetre. Of general colouring it may be said that the object
aimed at is to enhance the appearance of the gold by removing the
particles of alloy on the surface, and thus allowing the pure gold
only to remain visible to the eye. The process has, however, gone much
out of fashion. It is apt to rot the solder, and repairs to gold work
can be better finished by electro-gilding.
The application of machinery to the economical production of certain
classes of jewelry, not necessarily imitations, but as much "real
gold" work, to use a trade phrase, as the best hand-made, has been on
the increase for many years. Nearly every kind of gold chain now made
is manufactured by machinery, and nothing like the beauty of design
or perfection of workmanship could be obtained by hand at, probably,
any cost. The question therefore in relation to chains is not the mode
of manufacture, but the quality of the metal. Eighteen carat gold is
of course preferred by those who wear chains, but this is only gold in
the proportion of 18 to 24, pure gold being represented by 24. The
gold coin of the realm is 22 carat; that is, it contains one-twelfth
of alloy to harden it to stand wear and tear. Thus 18 carat gold has
one-fourth of alloy, and so on with lower qualities down to 12, which
is in reality only gold by courtesy. It must be remembered that the
alloys are made by weight, and as gold is nearly twice as heavy as the
metal it is mixed with, it only forms a third of the bulk of a 12
carat mixture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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