England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Were I advising a friend abroad who knew nothing of England and wished to
make a pilgrimage to its chief shrines of beauty, I think I should urge him
to come in the late winter to Plymouth and explore first Cornwall and
Devon, seeing, in the first case, how England's "rocky shores beat back the
envious siege of watery Neptune." The coming of the waves of an Atlantic
storm to Land's End offers a grand spectacle. He should stay in the
south-west to see the first breath of spring bring the trees to green, and
the earliest of the daffodils to flower. He will very likely encounter some
wet weather. The Dartmoor people themselves say:--
The south wind blows and brings wet weather,
The north gives wet and cold together,
The west wind comes brimful of rain,
The east wind drives it back again.
Then if the sun in red should set,
We know the morrow must be wet;
And if the eve is clad in grey
The next is sure a rainy day.
But despite showers, spring on Dartmoor is a glowing pageant of green and
gold. After feasting upon it a week or so, my imaginary pilgrim would make
his way to the Thames valley to welcome yet another spring. The Gulf Stream
gives the south-west corner of England a softer climate and an earlier
spring than the east enjoys. By the time the daffodils are nodding their
golden heads in Cornwall, the crocus will be just showing its flame along
the borders of the Thames, and the pilgrim will understand Browning's
rapture:--
Oh to be in England
Now that April's there,
And whoever wakes in England
Sees some morning, unaware,
That the lowest boughs and the brushwood sheaf
Round the elm tree hole are in tiny leaf;
While the chaffinch sings on the orchard bough
In England--now!
When once the spring is in full tide towards summer, it is difficult to say
where one should search for special beauty in England, for all is so
beautiful, from the Yorkshire hills to the Sussex marshes beloved of
Coventry Patmore--flat lands whose drowsy beauties glow under the broad
sunshine and suggest a tranquil charm of quiet joy tinged with melancholy,
too subtle to appeal to the casual "tripper," but of insistent call to all
who understood the more intimate charms of Nature. It is spacious is
Sussex. It shelters solitudes. Its quiet, slow-voiced people are
sympathetic with their surroundings. When storms rage Sussex takes a new
aspect. The screaming of the gulls, the sobbing of the sedges in the wind,
the wide, flat expanse laid, as it were, bare to the rage of the storm,
gives to the wind a sense of poignant desolation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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