England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
Our horses having grazed on the rich pasture are evidently satisfied,
some are actually rolling on the grass. So the hour has come to leave
the pleasant meadow in the Rogers Pass and pursue our journey. The
animals are loaded with their packs, but they are not too eager to
make another start. We hear “Steamboat,” “Calgary” and the other names
shouted in tones of anything but gentle remonstrance, and occasionally
stronger means of persuasion are employed. At last we are fairly
under way. Our descent is rapid. We soon come in sight of a conical
peak rising about fifteen hundred feet, as near as I can judge, above
the surrounding lofty mountains. It stood out majestically among its
fellows. We thought that it was a fit spot for the virgin attempt of
the Alpine Club. We name it Syndicate Peak. Major Rogers declared it
would be the summit of his ambition to plant on its highest point the
Union Jack on the day that the first through train passed along the
gorge we were now travelling. To the west there is a remarkable glacier
whence issues one of the sources of the Ille-celle-waet. We descend
slowly enough but with increased rapidity of actual descent, crossing
a series of avalanche slides with a growth of tall alder bushes, the
roots being interlaced in all directions. A line had been cut through
by the surveying party, or our progress would have been exceedingly
difficult. The narrow gorge occasionally widens out. The flat in the
valley of the Ille-celle-waet in some parts may be a quarter of a mile
in width, but it is exceedingly irregular in that respect.
We soon find ourselves five hundred feet below the summit. The
adjoining mountains are steep, and tracks of avalanches are frequent.
From some little distance to a point where the last pasture for
the horses can be had the trail is moderately good. Later in the
afternoon we came upon an encampment of two Shuswap Indians, who had
left Critchelow’s camp in the morning before we started. They had
pack-animals with them, and had selected the spot on account of some
grass growing on the line of a snow-slide. They informed us that this
was the last pasture to be found on the trail, so we resolved to camp
at the same place.
Our course had been westerly through a valley flanked on both sides
by high mountains of all forms with interlying glaciers. We have
difficulty in finding a place to pitch our tent, but finally we secure
a nook with area enough on the low gravelly bank of a brook of crystal
eighteen inches wide, but so small is the space available that the camp
fire must be placed on the opposite side of the rivulet; the murmur of
its waters at my feet was the sound by which I fall asleep.
In our encampment we had eleven men and sixteen horses, and a strange
compound of nationalities we presented. We are from Massachusetts,
Minnesota, Virginia, Nova Scotia, Ontario, Scotland, England, Norway
and Austria, and two are Shuswap Indians of British Columbia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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