Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
... London doth pour out her citizens
The mayor and all his brethren in best sort
Like to the senators of the antique Rome
With the plebeians swarming at their heels,
Go forth and fetch their conquering Caesar in!
Across the Heath we go, taking the road on the right at the triangle,
before long to find ourselves perhaps for the first time on the very
road the pilgrims followed--the great Roman highway of the Watling
Street.
I call the Watling Street a great Roman highway, for that, as we know
it, is what it is, but in its origin it is far older than the Roman
occupation. It ran right across England from the continental gate at
Dover, through Canterbury to Chester, fording the Thames at Lambeth,
and it was the first of the British trackways which the Romans
straightened, built up, and paved. It has been in continuous use for
more than three thousand years, and may therefore be said to be the
oldest road in England. It is older than the greatness of London, for
in its arrow flight across England it ignores the City. After the ford
at Lambeth, to-day represented by Lambeth Bridge, an older crossing of
the Thames than that at London Bridge, it mounted the northern slope,
passing perhaps across the present gardens of Buckingham Palace and
the eastern end of Hyde Park, where to-day it is lost or merely
represented by Grosvenor Place and Park Lane, to cross the great
western road out of London at Tyburn, the original "Cross Roads," the
ancient place of execution close by the present Marble Arch, and to
pursue its way, as we may see it still, directly and in true Roman
fashion down what we know as Edgware Road. That great north-western
highway lies over the very pavement of the Romans, which lies only a
few feet below the surface of the modern road.
It is then upon this most ancient highway that in the footsteps of the
Britons, the Romans their beneficent conquerors, and the English
pilgrims our forefathers, we shall march on to Canterbury. The road of
course is broken here and there, indeed in many places, and notably
between Dartford and Rochester, but for the most part it remains after
three thousand years the ordinary highway between the capital and the
archi-episcopal city.
The Watling Street takes Shooters' Hill, so called, I suppose, from
the highwaymen that infested the woods thereabouts, in true Roman
fashion, and it is from its summit that we get the first really great
view on our way, for that so famous from Greenwich Park does not
properly belong to our journey. We must, however, turn to another and
a later poet than Chaucer for any description of that tremendous
spectacle. Here indeed, more than in any other prospect the road
affords, the horizon is changed from that Chaucer looked upon.
[Illustration: SHOOTERS' HILL]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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