Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
Dartford Bridge, which already in the Middle Ages had supplanted ford
and ferry, happily remains to the extent of about a third of the width
of the two pointed arches which touch the banks. It was kept in order
and repair by the hermit who dwelt in a cell at the foot of the bridge
on the east, a cell older than the bridge, for the hermits used to
serve the ford. Here stood the Shrine of Our Lady and St Catherine of
Alexandria, which was much favoured by the pilgrims, so we may well
suppose that Chaucer and his friends did not pass it by without a
reverence.
Here too at the eastern end of the town stood a hospital dedicated in
honour of the Holy Trinity, but this Chaucer knew not, any more than
we may do, for it was only founded in 1452. It seems, however, to have
been built really over the stream upon piers, perhaps in something
the same way as the thirteenth-century Franciscan house at Canterbury
was built, which we may still see.
Dunken tells us that "the steep ascent of the Dover road leading
towards Brent was in ancient times called St Edmunde's Weye from its
leading to a Chapel dedicated to that saint situated near the middle of
the upper churchyard." This chapel, of which nothing remains, Edward
III. bestowed upon the Priory of Our Lady and St Margaret. On its
site, such is the irony of time, a "martyr's memorial" has been
erected to the unhappy and unfortunate folk burnt here in the time of
Queen Mary.
But Dartford is too pleasant a place to be left with such a merely
archaeological survey as this. It is a town in which one may be happy;
historically, however, it has not much claim upon our notice, its
chief boast being that it was here the first act of violence in the
Peasants' Revolt of 1381 occurred, when Wat Tyler broke the head of
the poll-tax collector who had brutally assaulted his daughter. Wat or
Walter--Tyler, because of his trade, which was that of covering roofs
with tiles--would seem, however, not to have been a Dartford man at
all. The very proper murder of the tax-collector would appear to have
been the work of a certain John "Tyler" of the same profession, here
in Dartford.
The Peasants' Revolt, which, alas! came to nothing, brings us indeed
quite into Chaucer's day, but it would have had little sympathy from
him, nor indeed has it really anything specially to do with this town.
The true fame of Dartford, which is its paper-making, dates from the
end of the sixteenth century, when one Sir John Speelman, jeweller to
Queen Elizabeth, is said to have established the first paper-mill.
If Dartford is poor in history, nevertheless it is worth a visit of
more than an hour or so for its own sake, as I have said. It boasts of
a good inn also, and the country and villages round about are
delicious. All that upper valley of the Darent, for instance, in which
lie Darenth, Sutton-at-Hone, Horton Kirby, and, a little way off
Fawkham, Eynsford, and Lullingstone, is worth the trouble of seeing
for its own beauty and delight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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