England, Picturesque and Descriptive: A Reminiscence of Foreign TravelCook, Joel
History
England, Picturesque and Descriptive: A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel
Cook, Joel
England -- Description and travel
The present Durham Cathedral was begun in 1093, with the castle
alongside. As we look at them from the railway-station, they stand a
monument of the days when the same hand grasped the pastoral staff and
the sword--"half house of God, half castle 'gainst the Scot." Upon the
top of the rocks, which are clad in foliage to the river's edge, on the
left hand, supported by massive outworks built up from halfway down the
slope, rises the western face of the castle. Beyond this, above a fringe
of trees, rises the lofty cathedral, its high central tower forming the
apex of the group and its two western towers looking down into the
ravine. The galilee in front appears built up from the depths of the
valley, and is supported by outworks scarcely less solid than those of
the castle. Durham, more than any other place in England, is a memorial
of the temporal authority of the Church, uniting the mitre and the
coronet. The plan of Durham Cathedral is peculiar in having the closed
galilee at the western end, instead of the open porch as is usual, while
the eastern end, which is wider than the choir, terminates abruptly,
having no Lady Chapel, but being in effect cut off, with a gable in the
centre and a great rose-window. As the galilee overhangs the ravine, the
principal entrance to the cathedral is from a fine northern porch. To
the portal is affixed a large knocker of quaint design, which in former
days was a Mecca for the fugitive, for the shrine of St. Cuthbert
enjoyed the right of sanctuary. When the suppliant grasped this knocker
he was safe, for over the door two monks kept perpetual watch to open at
the first stroke. As soon as admitted the suppliant was required to
confess his crime, whatever it might be. This was written down, and a
bell in the galilee tolled to announce the fact that some one had sought
"the peace of Cuthbert;" and he was then clothed in a black gown with a
yellow cross on the shoulder. After thirty-seven days, if no pardon
could be obtained, the malefactor solemnly abjured his native land for
ever, and was conveyed to the seacoast, bearing a white wooden cross in
his hand, and was sent out of the kingdom by the first ship that sailed.
[Illustration: DURHAM CATHEDRAL, FROM AN OLD HOMESTEAD ON THE WEAR.]
[Illustration: THE NAVE, DURHAM CATHEDRAL.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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