These two things are the only practical difference between the two
dates--the end of the eleventh century and the beginning of the
twelfth.
The under-tunic was made as a perfectly plain gown with tight sleeves
ending at the wrist; it hung loose and full upon the figure. Over this
was worn the short tunic with wide sleeves ending at the elbow. Both
tunics would have broad borders of embroidered work or bands of
coloured material. The supertunic would be brooched by one of those
circular Norman brooches which was an ornamental circle of open
gold-work in which stones and jewels were set. The brooch was fastened
by a central pin.
The extravagances of the previous reign were in some measure done away
with; even the very long hair was not fashionable in the latter half
of this reign, and the ultra-long sleeve was not so usual.
So we may give as a list of clothes for men in this reign:
A white linen shirt.
A long tunic, open at the neck, falling to the ground, with tight
sleeves to the wrist.
A short tunic reaching only to the knees, more open at the neck than
the long tunic, generally fastened by a brooch.
Tight, well-fitting drawers or loose trousers.
Bandages or garters crossed from the ankle to the knee to confine the
loose trousers or ornament the tights.
Boots of soft leather which had an ornamental band at the top.
Socks with an embroidered top.
Shoes of cloth and leather with an embroidered band down the centre
and round the top.
Shoes of skin tied with leather thongs.
Caps of skin or cloth of a very plain shape and without a brim.
Belts of leather or cloth or silk.
Semicircular cloaks fastened as previously described, and often lined
with fur.
The clothes of every colour, but with little or no pattern; the
patterns principally confined to irregular groups of dots.
And to think that in the year in which Henry died Nizami visited the
grave of Omar Al Khayyam in the Hira Cemetery at Nishapur!
[Illustration: A CHILD OF THE TIME OF HENRY I.
It is only in quite recent years that there have been quite distinct
dresses for children, fashions indeed which began with the ideas for
the improvement in hygiene. For many centuries children were
dressed, with slight modifications, after the manner of their
parents, looking like little men and women, until in the end they
arrived at the grotesque infants of Hogarth's day, powdered and
patched, with little stiff skirted suits and stiff brocade gowns,
with little swords and little fans and, no doubt, many pretty airs
and graces.
One thing I have never seen until the early sixteenth century, and
that is girls wearing any of the massive head-gear of their parents;
in all other particulars they were the same.]
THE WOMEN
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Henry I.}]
The greatest change in the appearance of the women was in the
arrangement of the hair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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