I have taken considerable pains to trace the influence of one garment
upon its successor, to reduce the wardrobe for each reign down to its
simplest cuts and folds, so that the reader may follow quite easily
the passage of the coat from its birth to its ripe age, and by this
means may not only know the clothes of one time, but the reasons for
those garments. To the best of my knowledge, such a thing has never
been done before; most works on dress try to include the world from
Adam to Charles Dickens, lump a century into a page, and dismiss the
ancient Egyptians in a couple of colour plates.
So many young gentlemen have blown away their patrimony on feathers
and tobacco that it is necessary for us to confine ourselves to
certain gentlemen and ladies in our own country. A knowledge of
history is essential to the study of mankind, and a knowledge of
history is never perfect without a knowledge of the clothes with which
to dress it.
A man, in a sense, belongs to his clothes; they are so much a part of
him that, to take him seriously, one must know how he walked about, in
what habit, with what air.
I am compelled to speak strongly of my own work because I believe in
it, and I feel that the series of paintings in these volumes are
really a valuable addition to English history. To be modest is often
to be excessively vain, and, having made an exhaustive study of my
subject from my own point of view, I do not feel called upon to hide
my knowledge under a bushel. Of course, I do not suggest that the
ordinary cultured man should acquire the same amount of knowledge as a
painter, or a writer of historical subjects, or an actor, but he
should understand the clothes of his own people, and be able to
visualize any date in which he may be interested.
One half of the people who talk glibly of Beau Brummell have but half
an idea when he lived, and no idea that, for example, he wore
whiskers. Hamlet they can conjure up, but would have some difficulty
in recognising Shakespeare, because most portraits of him are but head
and shoulders. Napoleon has stamped himself on men's minds very
largely through the medium of a certain form of hat, a lock of hair,
and a gray coat. In future years an orchid will be remembered as an
emblem.
I have arranged, as far as it is possible, that each plate shall show
the emblem or distinguishing mark of the reign it illustrates, so that
the continuity of costume shall be remembered by the arresting notes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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