Of all the shapes of nature, no shape has been so marvellously
maltreated as the human foot. It has suffered as no other portion of
the body has suffered: it has endured exceeding length and exceeding
narrowness; it has been swelled into broad, club-like shapes; it has
been artificially raised from the ground, ended off square, pressed
into tight points, curved under, and finally, as to-day, placed in
hard, shining, tight leather boxes. All this has been done to one of
the most beautiful parts of the human anatomy by the votaries of
fashion, who have in turn been delighted to expose the curves of their
bodies, the round swelling of their hips, the beauties of their nether
limbs, the whiteness of their bosoms, the turn of their elbows and
arms, and the rotundity of their shoulders, but who have, for some
mysterious reasons, been for hundreds of years ashamed of the
nakedness of their feet.
Let me give a wardrobe for a man of this time.
A hood with a cape to it; the peak of the hood made full, but about
half a hand's breadth longer than necessary to the hood; the cape cut
sometimes at the edge into a number of short slits.
A cap of soft stuff to fit the head, with or without an upturned brim.
A fillet of silk or metal for the hair.
A gown made very loose and open at the neck, wide in the body, the
sleeves loose or tight to the wrist. The gown long or short, on the
ground or to the knee, and almost invariably belted at the waist by a
long belt of leather with ornamental studs.
A surcoat split from shoulder to hem, or sewn up except for a wide
armhole.
A coat shaped very slightly to the figure, having pocket-holes in
front, small armholes, and a buttoned neck.
A great oblong-shaped piece of stuff for a cloak, or a heavy, round
cloak with an attached hood.
Tights of cloth or sewn silk--that is, pieces of silk cut and sewn to
the shape of the leg.
Shoes with long points--about 2 inches beyond the toes--fastened by a
strap in front, or laced at the sides, or made to pull on and fit at
the ankle, the last sometimes with a V-shaped piece cut away on
either side.
There was a tendency to beads, and a universal custom of long hair.
In all such clothes as are mentioned above every rich stuff of cloth,
silk, wool, and frieze may be used, and fur linings and fur hats are
constant, as also are furred edges to garments.
There was a slight increase of heraldic ornament, and a certain amount
of foreign diaper patterning on the clothes.
THE WOMEN
Now the lady must needs begin to repair the ravages of time and touch
the cheek that no longer knows the bloom of youth with--rouge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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