In these books we may see drawings of every form of agricultural life
and manorial existence: we see the country sports, the bear-baiting,
and the cock-fighting; we see the harvesters with straw hats, scythes,
and reaping-hooks; we see carters, carriers, and great carriages, all
depicted in a manner which we can only compare, in later years, to the
broad humour of Hogarth; and, as we turn the priceless pages over, the
whole fourteenth-century world passes before our eyes--japers and
jugglers; disours and jesters; monk, priest, pilgrim, and pardoner;
spendthrift and wench; hermits, good and evil; lords, ladies, and
Kings.
I have written of the men and their dress--how they were often--very
often--dirty, dusty, and travel-stained--of the red-rusted armour and
the striped and chequered clothes, and now I must write of the women
and the manner of their dress.
Of the time, you must remember that it was the time of chivalry, when
there was a Round Table of Knights at Windsor, founded in 1345; when
the Order of the Garter was founded; when tiltings and all manner of
tournaments were at their height; and you listen to the minstrels of
King Edward's household playing upon the trumpet, the cytole, the
pipe, the taberet, the clarion, and the fiddle.
St. George, the Primate of Egypt in the fourth century, had now risen
to public esteem and notice, so that he became in this time not only
the patron saint of chivalry, but the tutelar saint of England.
Boys were taken from the care of the ladies of the household at the
age of seven, when they became pages to knights, and were sworn to
devote themselves to the graces and favours of some girl. At fourteen
the boy became a squire, and at twenty-one, if he were possessed of a
rental of L20 a year in land, he made his fast and vigil, and was
afterward dubbed knight and given his spurs.
[Illustration: {Twelve hair arrangements for women}]
The noteworthy point about a woman of this reign was her hair. The
Queen herself wore an elaborate mode of coiffure for that time; she
wore a metal fillet round her head, to which was attached two cases,
circular in shape, of gold fretwork, ornamented with precious stones.
She wore her hair unplaited, and brought in two parts from the back
of her head, and as far as one can see, pushed into the jewelled
cases.
[Illustration: {Five sleeve types for women}]
The most general form of hair-dressing was an excess on the mode of
the previous reign, a richness of jewel-work, an abundance of gold
wire. It was usual to divide the hair into two plaits, and arrange
these on either side of the face, holding them in their place by means
of a fillet; they might be worn folded straight up by the face, or at
an angle, but they were never left hanging; if hair was left loose it
was not plaited, but flowing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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