Every form of beard or moustache was used, and the hair was worn long
to the nape of the neck. By the dandy it was elaborately pressed and
curled at the ends. Bands of real or artificial flowers encircled the
heads of the dandies, the artificial flowers made in enamels or gold.
Rings were worn of great size on thumb and finger; long staffs with
elaborate heads were carried.
Under the houppelande was the skirt and the cotehardie of thin
material, and on the legs hose, pied or powdered, made of silk or
cloth cut to the form and sewn.
[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF RICHARD II. (1377-1399)
His chaperon, or hood, is twisted and tied about his head with
the liripipe, the elongated peak of his hood, thrown over his
shoulders.]
The shoes were of great length, with long points; rarely we find
examples of the absurd fashion of wearing the points so long that they
were tied back to the knees, but often they were so long that the
points came out 6 inches beyond the toe. They were made of every
material, sewn with pearls on cloth or velvet, stamped with gold on
leather, or the leather raised. The toes were sometimes stuffed hard,
sometimes allowed to hang limp.
For walking in the streets high clogs of wood were used, made with
long pointed ends to support the shoes.
I may add that the hose were gartered below the knee to hold them taut
with rich garters, but if a man were a Garter Knight he wore but the
garter of his Order.
[Illustration: {Evolution of the hood to the chaperon}]
Much in favour with this court of gallants were rich chains about the
neck, having for pendant their badge or some saint's figure in gold or
silver.
[Illustration: {Five types of head-wear}]
Now we come to the most interesting and universal fashion of wearing
the chaperon, which I am anxious to show in its various stages. It
began with a cape and a hood worn separately; these were joined for
convenience so that a man might put on both at once. This fashion held
for many years, and then the fashionable man in search of novelty
caused the peak of the hood to be lengthened until it grew to reach to
his feet. Then he cast about for a fresh mode for his head-wear, and
so he twisted the whole affair about his head, leaving the end of the
cape, which was jagged at the edge, protruding like a cockscomb. Time
went on, and he avoided the trouble of tying this himself, so he had
the hat made up all ready tied, much in the manner of a turban.
Finally, the chaperon grew into disuse, and it remains to-day a
curious reminder in the cockade worn by coachmen (it is almost a
replica in miniature, with the round twist and the jagged edge
sticking up above the hat) and on the cloaks of the Knights of the
Garter, where it is carefully made, and forms a cape on the right
shoulder, and in the present head-dress of the French lawyer, a relic
of the Middle Ages.
The chains worn about the neck remain as badges of office in Mayors
and Judges and in various Orders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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