The gown, opening at the neck in the same way as did the men's tunics, showed the white of the chemise, the opening being held together sometimes by a brooch. [Illustration: {A woman of the time of William I.; a type of neckline}] Towards the end of the reign the upper part of the gown--that is, from the neck to the waist--was worn close and fitted more closely to the figure, but not over-tightly--much as a tight jersey would fit. Over all was a cloak of the semicircular shape, very voluminous--about three feet in diameter--which was brooched in the centre or on the shoulder. [Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF WILLIAM I. (1066-1087) A twist of wool holds the gown at the waist. Under the gown the chemise shows. The neck of the gown is embroidered.] On the head, where the hair was closely coiled with a few curls at the forehead, a wimple was worn, which was wound about the head and thrown over the shoulder, not allowing the hair to show. These wimples were sometimes very broad, and were almost like a mantle, so that they fell over the shoulders below the breast. Tied round the wimple they sometimes had a snood, or band of silk. The shoes were like those worn by the men. These ladies were all housewives, cooking, preparing simples, doing embroidery and weaving. They were their own milliners and dressmakers, and generally made their husbands' clothes, although some garments might be made by the town tailors; but, as a rule, they weaved, cut, sewed, and fitted for their families, and then, after the garments were finished to satisfaction, they would begin upon strips of embroidery to decorate them. In such occupation we may picture them, and imagine them sitting by the windows with their ladies, busily sewing, looking up from their work to see hedged fields in lambing-time, while shepherds in rough sheepskin clothes drove the sheep into a neat enclosure, and saw to it that they lay on warm straw against the cold February night. WILLIAM THE SECOND Reigned thirteen years: 1087-1100. Born _c._ 1060. THE MEN [Illustration: {A man of the time of William II.}] About this time there came to England a Norman, who settled near by the Abbey of Battle--Baldwin the Tailor by name, whom one might call the father of English tailoring. Baldwin the Tailor sat contentedly cross-legged on his bench and plied his needle and thread, and snipped, and cut, and sewed, watching the birds pick worms and insects from the turf of the battleground. [Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF WILLIAM II. (1087-1100) Shows the wide drawers with an embroidered hem. Under them can be seen the long woollen drawers bound with leather thongs.] England is getting a little more settled. The reign opens picturesquely enough with William Rufus hastening to England with his father's ring, and ends with the tragedy of the New Forest and a blood-stained tunic.