Armorial bindings; Bookplates, English; Heraldry -- Great Britain
Imitation jewels are repoussé upon the circlets of all these coronets,
except those of Barons and Heralds. No English crowns or coronets,
except those worn by the Sovereign or the Queen Consort, have any real
jewels upon them.
Crowns and coronets are only officially worn in England on the occasion
of the coronation, and then with the ordered coronation dress. They are
put on when the crown is put upon the head of the Sovereign. But if
they are held over the head of the owner it appears to be sufficient,
as in Sir George Hayter's beautiful picture of the coronation of Queen
Victoria, the Duchess of Cambridge is shown with a Lady-in-Waiting
holding her coronet over her head. The Duchess was wearing a very
handsome diamond tiara which, no doubt, she considered more becoming
than her coronet.
Crowns and coronets are properly depicted without any cap within
them, but when they are worn it is always over the Peer's cap, known
variously as a Cap of Estate, of Maintenance, or of Dignity. The same
cap is also used in many early instances as a crest-chapeau. The cap
is the same for all ranks, from the Sovereign to the King-of-Arms; it
consists of a red velvet cap lined with white silk and turned up with
miniver, which is white ermine fur having small dots or tufts of black
horsehair sewn into it at intervals. At the top is an ornamental gold
button, with fringes of gold thread.
[Illustration]
The earliest figure of a cap of this sort can be seen on the Black
Prince's helmet over his tomb at Canterbury; it has been painted red
and miniver, but is now in a very bad condition. The crest stands upon
it.
The Cap of Estate, without any crown or coronet over it, is worn by the
Sovereign on the way to the coronation, and it is also generally borne
on a cushion by one of the great officers of State when the Sovereign
is present in State or Semi-State. It is carried by the Marquis of
Winchester or his representative. Peers used such caps pictorially
before they showed coronets, and on fifteenth and sixteenth century
seals the Cap of Estate marks a high rank. It commonly shows on the
seals of Dukes and Earls in conjunction with a helmet. The chapeau
in early times seems to end in two swallow-tails, but now it is worn
round. As a crest support in modern times it is rarely granted, but
there still remain a few instances of its use.
Although it is correct to depict coronets without the Cap of Estate, it
is also correct to show them with it. In the latter case the miniver
turn-up comes just below the lower rim of the circlet. It is a common
mistake to show the miniver turn-up without the velvet Cap above it,
which is obviously absurd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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