England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
When a social product is so vast and various, it may be approached
on a thousand different sides, and liked and disliked for a thousand
different reasons. The reasons of Piccadilly are not those of Camden
Town, nor are the curiosities and discouragements of Kilburn the same
as those of Westminster and Lambeth. The reasons of Piccadilly—I mean
the friendly ones—are those of which, as a general thing, the rooted
visitor remains most conscious; but it must be confessed that even
these, for the most part, do not lie upon the surface. The absence
of style, or rather of the intention of style, is certainly the
most general characteristic of the face of London. To cross to Paris
under this impression is to find one’s self surrounded with far other
standards. There everything reminds you that the idea of beautiful
and stately arrangement has never been out of fashion, that the art of
composition has always been at work or at play. Avenues and squares,
gardens and quays, have been distributed for effect, and to-day the
splendid city reaps the accumulation of all this ingenuity. The result
is not in every quarter interesting, and there is a tiresome monotony
of the “fine” and the symmetrical, above all, of the deathly passion
for making things “to match.” On the other hand the whole air of the
place is architectural. On the banks of the Thames it is a tremendous
chapter of accidents—the London-lover has to confess to the existence
of miles upon miles of the dreariest, stodgiest commonness. Thousands
of acres are covered by low black houses of the cheapest construction,
without ornament, without grace, without character or even identity.
In fact there are many, even in the best quarters, in all the region
of Mayfair and Belgravia, of so paltry and inconvenient, especially
of so diminutive a type (those that are let in lodgings—such poor
lodgings as they make—may serve as an example), that you wonder what
peculiarly limited domestic need they were constructed to meet. The
great misfortune of London to the eye (it is true that this remark
applies much less to the City), is the want of elevation. There is no
architectural impression without a certain degree of height, and the
London street-vista has none of that sort of pride.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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