England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
Among the edifying days that I spent in these neighbourhoods there
is one in especial of which I should like to give a detailed account.
But I find on consulting my memory that the details have melted away
into the single deep impression of a perfect ripeness of civilisation.
It was a long excursion, by rail and by carriage, for the purpose of
seeing three extremely interesting old country-houses. Our errand
led us, in the first place, into Oxfordshire, through the ancient
market-town of Banbury, where of course we made a point of looking
out for the Cross referred to in the famous nursery-rhyme. It stood
there in the most natural manner—though I am afraid it has been “done
up”—with various antique gables around it, from one of whose exiguous
windows the young person appealed to in the rhyme may have looked
at the old woman as she rode, and heard the music of her bells. The
houses we went to see have not a national reputation; they are simply
interwoven figures in the rich pattern of the Midlands. They have
indeed a local renown, but they are not thought of as unexampled, still
less as abnormal, and the stranger has a feeling that his surprises and
ecstasies are held to betray the existence, on his part, of a blank
background. Such places, to a Warwickshire mind of good habits, must
appear the pillars and props of a heaven-appointed order of things; and
accordingly, in a land on which heaven smiles, they are as natural as
the geology of the county or the supply of mutton. But nothing could
well give a stranger a stronger impression of the wealth of England in
such matters—of the interminable list of her territorial homes—than
this fact that the so eminent specimens I speak of should have but a
limited fame, should not be lions of the first magnitude. Of one of
them, the finest in the group, one of my companions, who lived but
twenty miles away, had never even heard. Such a place was not thought
a subject for local swagger. Its peers and mates are scattered all
over the country; half of them are not even mentioned in the county
guidebooks. You stumble upon them in a drive or a walk. You catch a
glimpse of an ivied front at some midmost point of wide acres, and,
taking your way, by leave of a serious old woman at a lodge-gate, along
an overarching avenue, you find yourself introduced to an edifice so
human-looking in its beauty that it seems for the occasion fairly to
reconcile art and morality.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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