England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
To Broughton Castle, the first seen in this beautiful group, I must do
no more than allude; but this is not because I failed to think it, as
I think every house I see, the most delightful habitation in England.
It lies rather low, and its woods and pastures slope down to it; it
has a deep, clear moat all round it, spanned by a bridge that passes
under a charming old gate-tower, and nothing can be sweeter than to
see its clustered walls of yellow-brown stone so sharply islanded
while its gardens bloom on the other side of the water. Like several
other houses in this part of the country, Broughton Castle played
a part (on the Parliamentary side) in the civil wars, and not the
least interesting features of its beautiful interior are the several
mementoes of Cromwell’s station there. It was within a moderate drive
of this place that in 1642 the battle of Edgehill was fought—the first
great battle of the war—and gained by neither party. We went to see
the battlefield, where an ancient tower and an artificial ruin (of
all things in the world) have been erected for the entertainment of
convivial visitors. These ornaments are perched upon the edge of a
slope which commands a view of the exact scene of the contest, upwards
of a mile away. I looked in the direction indicated and saw misty
meadows a little greener perhaps than usual and colonnades of elms a
trifle denser. After this we paid our respects to another old house
which is full of memories and suggestions of that most dramatic period
of English history. But of Compton Wyniates (the name of this seat
of enchantment) I despair of giving any coherent or adequate account.
It belongs to the Marquis of Northampton, and it stands empty all the
year round. It sits on the grass at the bottom of a wooded hollow, and
the glades of a superb old park go wandering upward away from it. When
I came out in front of the house from a short and steep but stately
avenue I said to myself that here surely we had arrived at the farthest
limits of what ivy-smothered brickwork and weather-beaten gables,
conscious old windows and clustered mossy roofs can accomplish for the
eye. It is impossible to imagine a more finished picture. And its air
of solitude and delicate decay—of having been dropped into its grassy
hollow as an ancient jewel is deposited upon a cushion, and being shut
in from the world and back into the past by its circling woods—all
this drives the impression well home. The house is not large, as great
houses go, and it sits, as I have said, upon the grass, without even a
flagging or a footpath to conduct you from the point where the avenue
stops to the beautiful sculptured doorway which admits you into the
small, quaint inner court. From this court you are at liberty to pass
through the crookedest series of oaken halls and chambers, adorned with
treasures of old wainscotting and elaborate doors and chimney-pieces.
Outside, you may walk all round the house on a grassy bank, which
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