England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
the days of its prosperity, when the pilgrim came down to it from the
grassy hillside and its bells made the stillness sensible! The abbey
was in those days a great affair; it sprawled, as my companion said,
all over the place. As you walk away from it you think you have got to
the end of its geography, but you encounter it still in the shape of
a rugged outhouse enriched with an early-English arch, of an ancient
well hidden in a kind of sculptured cavern. It is noticeable that even
if you are a traveller from a land where there are no early-English—and
indeed few late-English—arches, and where the well-covers are, at their
hoariest, of fresh-looking shingles, you grow used with little delay to
all this antiquity. Anything very old seems extremely natural; there
is nothing we suffer to get so near us as the tokens of the remote.
It is not too much to say that after spending twenty-four hours in a
house that is six hundred years old you seem yourself to have lived
in it six hundred years. You seem yourself to have hollowed the flags
with your tread and to have polished the oak with your touch. You walk
along the little stone gallery where the monks used to pace, looking
out of the gothic window-places at their beautiful church, and you
pause at the big, round, rugged doorway that admits you to what is now
the drawing-room. The massive step by which you ascend to the threshold
is a trifle crooked, as it should be; the lintels are cracked and worn
by the myriad-fingered years. This strikes your casual glance. You
look up and down the miniature cloister before you pass in; it seems
wonderfully old and queer. Then you turn into the drawing-room, where
you find modern conversation and late publications and the prospect
of dinner. The new life and the old have melted together; there is no
dividing-line. In the drawing-room wall is a queer funnel-shaped hole,
with the broad end inward, like a small casemate. You ask what it is,
but people have forgotten. It is something of the monks; it is a mere
detail. After dinner you are told that there is of course a ghost,
a grey friar who is seen in the dusky hours at the end of passages.
Sometimes the servants see him; they afterwards go surreptitiously to
sleep in the village. Then, when you take your chamber-candle and go
wandering bedward by a short cut through empty rooms, you are conscious
of an attitude toward the grey friar which you hardly know whether to
read as a fond hope or as a great fear.
[Illustration: LUDLOW CASTLE; FROM THE MOAT]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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