England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
A friend of mine, an American, who knew this country, had told me
not to fail, while I was in the neighbourhood, to go to Stokesay and
two or three other places. “Edward IV and Elizabeth,” he said, “are
still hanging about there.” So admonished, I made a point of going
at least to Stokesay, and I saw quite what my friend meant. Edward
IV and Elizabeth indeed are still to be met almost anywhere in the
county; as regards domestic architecture few parts of England are
still more vividly old-English. I have rarely had, for a couple of
hours, the sensation of dropping back personally into the past so
straight as while I lay on the grass beside the well in the little
sunny court of this small castle and lazily appreciated the still
definite details of mediæval life. The place is a capital example of
a small _gentil-hommière_ of the thirteenth century. It has a good
deep moat, now filled with wild verdure, and a curious gate-house of
a much later period—the period when the defensive attitude had been
wellnigh abandoned. This gate-house, which is not in the least in the
style of the habitation, but gabled and heavily timbered, with quaint
cross-beams protruding from surfaces of coarse white plaster, is a very
effective anomaly in regard to the little grey fortress on the other
side of the court. I call this a fortress, but it is a fortress which
might easily have been taken, and it must have assumed its present
shape at a time when people had ceased to peer through narrow slits
at possible besiegers. There are slits in the outer walls for such
peering, but they are noticeably broad and not particularly oblique,
and might easily have been applied to the uses of a peaceful parley.
This is part of the charm of the place; human life there must have lost
an earlier grimness; it was lived in by people who were beginning to
believe in good intentions. They must have lived very much together;
that is one of the most obvious reflections in the court of a mediæval
dwelling. The court was not always grassy and empty, as it is now,
with only a couple of gentlemen in search of impressions lying at
their length, one of them handling a wine-flask that colours the clear
water drawn from the well into a couple of tumblers by a decent, rosy,
smiling, talking old woman who has come bustling out of the gate-house
and who has a large, dropsical, innocent husband standing about on
crutches in the sun and making no sign when you ask after his health.
This poor man has reached that ultimate depth of human simplicity at
which even a chance to talk about one’s ailments is not appreciated.
But the civil old woman talks for every one, even for an artist who
has come out of one of the rooms, where I see him afterward reproducing
its mouldering repose. The rooms are all unoccupied and in a state of
extreme decay, though the castle is, as yet, far from being a ruin.
From one of the windows I see a young lady sitting under a tree, across
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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