England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
provincial antiquary of upwards of forty years ago penetrated with the
grandeur of the aristocracy—had grown rather sallow and stale. Nothing
could have been more mellifluous and urbane than the young curate: he
was arranging to have the “Times” newspaper sent him every morning
for perusal. “So it will be a penny if it is fetched away at noon?”
he said, smiling very sweetly and with the most gentlemanly voice
possible; “and it will be three halfpence if it is fetched away at four
o’clock?” At the top of the street, into which, with my guide-book, I
relapsed, was an old market-cross of the fifteenth century—a florid,
romantic little structure. It consists of a stone pavilion, with open
sides and a number of pinnacles and crockets and buttresses, besides
a goodly medallion of the high-nosed visage of Charles I, which was
placed above one of the arches, at the Restoration, in compensation
for the violent havoc wrought upon the little town by the Parliamentary
soldiers, who had wrested the place from the Royalists and who amused
themselves, in their grim fashion, with infinite hacking and hewing
in the cathedral. Here, to the left, the cathedral discloses itself,
lifting its smart grey steeple out of a pleasant garden. Opposite to
the garden was the Dolphin or the Dragon—in fine the most eligible
inn. I must confess that for a time it divided my attention with the
cathedral, in virtue of an ancient, musty parlour on the second floor,
with hunting-pictures hung above haircloth sofas; of a red-faced
waiter, in evening dress; of a big round of cold beef and a tankard of
ale. The prettiest thing at Chichester is a charming little three-sided
cloister, attached to the cathedral, where, as is usual in such places,
you may sit upon a gravestone amid the deep grass in the middle and
measure the great central mass of the church—the large grey sides, the
high foundations of the spire, the parting of the nave and transept.
From this point the greatness of a cathedral seems more complex and
impressive. You watch the big shadows slowly change their relations;
you listen to the cawing of rooks and the twittering of swallows; you
hear a slow footstep echoing in the cloisters.
[Illustration: CHICHESTER CROSS]
V
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