England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
If Oxford were not the finest thing in England the case would be
clearer for Cambridge. It was clear enough there, for that matter, to
my imagination, for thirty-six hours. To the barbaric mind, ambitious
of culture, Oxford is the usual image of the happy reconciliation
between research and acceptance. It typifies to an American the union
of science and sense—of aspiration and ease. A German university
gives a greater impression of science and an English country-house
or an Italian villa a greater impression of idle enjoyment; but in
these cases, on one side, knowledge is too rugged, and on the other
satisfaction is too trivial. Oxford lends sweetness to labour and
dignity to leisure. When I say Oxford I mean Cambridge, for a stray
savage is not the least obliged to know the difference, and it suddenly
strikes me as being both very pedantic and very good-natured in him
to pretend to know it. What institution is more majestic than Trinity
College? what can affect more a stray savage than the hospitality
of such an institution? The first quadrangle is of immense extent,
and the buildings that surround it, with their long, rich fronts of
time-deepened grey, are the stateliest in the world. In the centre
of the court are two or three acres of close-shaven lawn, out of the
midst of which rises a grand gothic fountain, where the serving-men
fill up their buckets. There are towers and battlements and statues,
and besides these things there are cloisters and gardens and bridges.
There are charming rooms in a kind of stately gate-tower, and the
rooms, occupying the thickness of the building, have windows looking
out on one side over the magnificent quadrangle, with half a mile or
so of Decorated architecture, and on the other into deep-bosomed trees.
And in the rooms is the best company conceivable—distinguished men who
are thoroughly conversible, intimately affable. I spent a beautiful
Sunday morning walking about the place with one of these gentlemen and
attempting to _débrouiller_ its charms. These are a very complicated
tangle, and I do not pretend, in memory, to keep the colleges apart.
There are none the less half a dozen points that make ineffaceable
pictures. Six or eight of the colleges stand in a row, turning their
backs to the river; and hereupon ensues the loveliest confusion
of gothic windows and ancient trees, of grassy banks and mossy
balustrades, of sun-chequered avenues and groves, of lawns and gardens
and terraces, of single-arched bridges spanning the little stream,
which is small and shallow and looks as if it had been turned on for
ornamental purposes. The thin-flowing Cam appears to exist simply as an
occasion for these brave little bridges—the beautiful covered gallery
of John’s or the slightly collapsing arch of Clare. In the way of
college-courts and quiet scholastic porticoes, of grey-walled gardens
and ivied nooks of study, in all the pictorial accidents of a great
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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