England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
English university, Cambridge is delightfully and inexhaustibly rich.
I looked at these one by one and said to myself always that the last
was the best. If I were called upon, however, to mention the prettiest
corner of the world, I should draw out a thoughtful sigh and point the
way to the garden of Trinity Hall. My companion, who was very competent
to judge (but who spoke indeed with the partiality of a son of the
house), declared, as he ushered me into it, that it was, to his mind,
the most beautiful _small_ garden in Europe. I freely accepted, and
I promptly repeat, an affirmation so magnanimously conditioned. The
little garden at Trinity Hall is narrow and crooked; it leans upon the
river, from which a low parapet, all muffled in ivy, divides it; it has
an ancient wall adorned with a thousand matted creepers on one side,
and on the other a group of extraordinary horse-chestnuts. The trees
are of prodigious size; they occupy half the garden, and are remarkable
for the fact that their giant limbs strike down into the earth, take
root again and emulate, as they rise, the majesty of the parent stem.
The manner in which this magnificent group of horse-chestnuts sprawls
about over the grass, out into the middle of the lawn, is one of the
most heart-shaking features of the garden of Trinity Hall. Of course
the single object at Cambridge that makes the most abiding impression
is the famous chapel of King’s College—the most beautiful chapel in
England. The effect it attempts to produce within is all in the sphere
of the sublime. The attempt succeeds, and the success is attained by a
design so light and elegant that at first it almost defeats itself. The
sublime usually has more of a frown and straddle, and it is not until
after you have looked about you for ten minutes that you perceive the
chapel to be saved from being the prettiest church in England by the
accident of its being one of the noblest. It is a cathedral without
aisles or columns or transepts, but (as a compensation) with such a
beautiful slimness of clustered tracery soaring along the walls and
spreading, bending, and commingling in the roof, that its simplicity
seems only a richness the more. I stood there for a quarter of an hour
on a Sunday morning; there was no service, but in the choir behind the
great screen which divides the chapel in half the young choristers
were rehearsing for the afternoon. The beautiful boy voices rose
together and touched the splendid vault; they hung there, expanding
and resounding, and then, like a rocket that spends itself, they faded
and melted toward the end of the building. It was positively a choir of
angels.
[Illustration: ABBEY GATEWAY, BURY ST. EDMUNDS]
VI
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