England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
Rye continued indeed, under her old brown south cliff, to build big
boats till this industry was smitten by the adoption of iron. That was
the last stroke; though even now you may see things as you stand on the
edge of the cliff: best of all on the open, sunny terrace of a dear
little old garden—a garden brown-walled, red-walled, rose-covered on
its other sides, divided by the width of a quiet street of grass-grown
cobbles from the house of its master, and possessed of a little old
glass-fronted, panelled pavilion which I hold to be the special spot
in the world where Thackeray might most fitly have figured out his
story. There is not much room in the pavilion, but there is room
for the hard-pressed table and the tilted chair—there is room for
a novelist and his friends. The panels have a queer paint and a
venerable slant; the small chimney-place is at your back; the south
window is perfect, the privacy bright and open. How can I tell what
old—what young—visions of visions and memories of images come back to
me under the influence of this quaint receptacle, into which, by kind
permission, I occasionally peep, and still more under the charm of the
air and the view that, as I just said, you may enjoy, close at hand,
from the small terrace? How can I tell why I always keep remembering
and losing there the particular passages of some far-away foolish
fiction, absorbed in extreme youth, which haunt me, yet escape me, like
the echo of an old premonition? I seem to myself to have lain on the
grass somewhere, as a boy, poring over an English novel of the period,
presumably quite bad,—for they were pretty bad then too,—and losing
myself in the idea of just such another scene as this. But even could I
rediscover the novel, I wouldn’t go back to it. It couldn’t have been
so good as this; for this—all concrete and doomed and minimised as it
is—is the real thing. The other little gardens, other little odds and
ends of crooked brown wall and supported terrace and glazed winter
sun-trap, lean over the cliff that still, after centuries, keeps its
rude drop; they have beneath them the river, a tide that comes and
goes, and the mile or more of grudging desert level, beyond it, which
now throws the sea to the near horizon, where, on summer days, with a
depth of blue and a scattered gleam of sails, it looks forgiving and
resigned. The little old shipyards at the base of the rock are for the
most part quite empty, with only vague piles of brown timber and the
deposit of generations of chips; yet a fishing-boat or two are still
on the stocks—an “output” of three or four a year!—and the ring of the
hammer on the wood, a sound, in such places, rare to the contemporary
ear, comes up, through the sunny stillness, to your meditative perch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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