England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
While Winchelsea dreamed, at any rate, she worked, and the noble
fragment of her great church, rising solid from the abortive symmetry
of her great square, helps us to put our hand on her deep good faith.
She built at least as she believed—she planned as she fondly imagined.
The huge ivy-covered choir and transepts of St. Thomas of Canterbury—to
whom the structure was addressed—represent to us a great intention.
They are not so mighty, but they are almost as brave, as the wondrous
fragment of Beauvais. Walled and closed on their unfinished side, they
form at present all the church, and, with its grand lines of arch and
window, its beautiful gothic tombs and general hugeness and height,
the church—mercifully exempt as yet from restoration—is wonderful for
the place. You may at this hour—if you are given to such emotions—feel
a mild thrill, not be unaware even of the approach of tears, as you
measure the scale on which the building had been planned and the ground
that the nave and aisles would have covered. You murmur, in the summer
twilight, a soft “Bravo!” across the ages—to the ears of heaven knows
what poor nameless ghosts. The square—apparently one of many—was to
have been worthy of New York or of Turin; for the queerest, quaintest,
most touching thing of all is that the reinstated city was to have
been laid out on the most approved modern lines. Nothing is more
interesting—to the mooning, sketching spectator—than this evidence that
the great Edward had anticipated us all in the convenient chessboard
pattern. It is true—attention has been called to the fact—that Pompeii
had anticipated _him_; but I doubt if he knew much about Pompeii. His
abstract avenues and cross-streets straggle away, through the summer
twilight, into mere legend and mystery. In speaking awhile since of the
gates of these shattered strongholds as “stiff,” I also spoke of their
walls as “tight;” but the scheme of Winchelsea must have involved,
after all, a certain looseness of cincture. The old vague girdle is
lost to-day in the fields where the sheep browse, in the parkish acres
where the great trees cluster. The Sussex oak is mighty—it was of
the Sussex oak that, in the old time, the king’s ships were built; it
was, in particular, to her command of this material that Rye owed the
burdensome honour of supplying vessels, on constant call, to the royal
navy. Strange is this record, in Holloway’s History of that town, and
in presence of the small things of to-day; so perpetual, under stress,
appears to have been the demand and so free the supply and the service.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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