England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
And yet I should not go so far as to say that it is a condition of
such geniality to close one’s eyes upon the immense misery; on the
contrary, I think it is partly because we are irremediably conscious
of that dark gulf that the most general appeal of the great city
remains exactly what it is, the largest chapter of human accidents.
I have no idea of what the future evolution of the strangely mingled
monster may be; whether the poor will improve away the rich, or the
rich will expropriate the poor, or they will all continue to dwell
together on their present imperfect terms of intercourse. Certain it
is, at any rate, that the impression of suffering is a part of the
general vibration; it is one of the things that mingle with all the
others to make the sound that is supremely dear to the consistent
London-lover—the rumble of the tremendous human mill. This is the
note which, in all its modulations, haunts and fascinates and inspires
him. And whether or no he may succeed in keeping the misery out of the
picture, he will freely confess that the latter is not spoiled for him
by some of its duskiest shades. We are far from liking London well
enough till we like its defects: the dense darkness of much of its
winter, the soot on the chimney-pots and everywhere else, the early
lamplight, the brown blur of the houses, the splashing of hansoms in
Oxford Street or the Strand on December afternoons.
There is still something that recalls to me the enchantment of
children—the anticipation of Christmas, the delight of a holiday
walk—in the way the shop-fronts shine into the fog. It makes each of
them seem a little world of light and warmth, and I can still waste
time in looking at them with dirty Bloomsbury on one side and dirtier
Soho on the other. There are winter effects, not intrinsically sweet,
it would appear, which somehow, in absence, touch the chords of memory
and even the fount of tears; as for instance the front of the British
Museum on a black afternoon, or the portico, when the weather is vile,
of one of the big square clubs in Pall Mall. I can give no adequate
account of the subtle poetry of such reminiscences; it depends upon
associations of which we have often lost the thread. The wide colonnade
of the Museum, its symmetrical wings, the high iron fence in its
granite setting, the sense of the misty halls within, where all the
treasures lie—these things loom patiently through atmospheric layers
which instead of making them dreary impart to them something of a cheer
of red lights in a storm. I think the romance of a winter afternoon
in London arises partly from the fact that, when it is not altogether
smothered, the general lamplight takes this hue of hospitality. Such
is the colour of the interior glow of the clubs in Pall Mall, which
I positively like best when the fog loiters upon their monumental
staircases.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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