England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
Is it for this reason—because I like to think how great we all are
together in the light of heaven and the face of the rest of the world,
with the bond of our glorious tongue, in which we labour to write
articles and books for each other’s candid perusal, how great we all
are and how great is the great city which we may unite fraternally
to regard as the capital of our race—is it for this that I have a
singular kindness for the London railway-stations, that I like them
æsthetically, that they interest and fascinate me, and that I view them
with complacency even when I wish neither to depart nor to arrive? They
remind me of all our reciprocities and activities, our energies and
curiosities, and our being all distinguished together from other people
by our great common stamp of perpetual motion, our passion for seas and
deserts and the other side of the globe, the secret of the impression
of strength—I don’t say of social roundness and finish—that we produce
in any collection of Anglo-Saxon types. If in the beloved foggy season
I delight in the spectacle of Paddington, Euston, or Waterloo,—I
confess I prefer the grave northern stations,—I am prepared to defend
myself against the charge of puerility; for what I seek and what I
find in these vulgar scenes is at bottom simply so much evidence of our
larger way of looking at life. The exhibition of variety of type is in
general one of the bribes by which London induces you to condone her
abominations, and the railway-platform is a kind of compendium of that
variety. I think that nowhere so much as in London do people wear—to
the eye of observation—definite signs of the sort of people they may
be. If you like above all things to know the sort, you hail this fact
with joy; you recognise that if the English are immensely distinct
from other people, they are also socially—and that brings with it,
in England, a train of moral and intellectual consequences—extremely
distinct from each other. You may see them all together, with the rich
colouring of their differences, in the fine flare of one of Mr. W. H.
Smith’s bookstalls—a feature not to be omitted in any enumeration of
the charms of Paddington and Euston. It is a focus of warmth and light
in the vast smoky cavern; it gives the idea that literature is a thing
of splendour, of a dazzling essence, of infinite gas-lit red and gold.
A glamour hangs over the glittering booth, and a tantalising air of
clever new things. How brilliant must the books all be, how veracious
and courteous the fresh, pure journals! Of a Saturday afternoon, as
you wait in your corner of the compartment for the starting of the
train, the window makes a frame for the glowing picture. I say of a
Saturday afternoon, because that is the most characteristic time—it
speaks most of the constant circulation and in particular of the quick
jump, by express, just before dinner, for the Sunday, into the hall of
the country-house and the forms of closer friendliness, the prolonged
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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