England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
on account of the extraordinary beauty of his treatment of the special
relation between man and woman. It is a complete and splendid picture
of the matter, which somehow places it at the same time in the region
of conduct and responsibility. But when we talk of Robert Browning’s
speaking “for us,” we go to the end of our privilege, we say all. With
a sense of security, perhaps even a certain complacency, we leave our
sophisticated modern conscience, and perhaps even our heterogeneous
modern vocabulary, in his charge among the illustrious. There will
possibly be moments in which these things will seem to us to have
widened the allowance, made the high abode more comfortable, for some
of those who are yet to enter it.
1890.
[Illustration]
CHESTER
If the Atlantic voyage be counted, as it certainly may, even with the
ocean in a fairly good humour, an emphatic zero in the sum of one’s
better experience, the American traveller arriving at this venerable
town finds himself transported, without a sensible gradation, from
the edge of the new world to the very heart of the old. It is almost
a misfortune perhaps that Chester lies so close to the threshold of
England; for it is so rare and complete a specimen of an antique town
that the later-coming wonders of its sisters in renown,—of Shrewsbury,
Coventry, and York—suffer a trifle by comparison, and the tourist’s
appetite for the picturesque just loses its finer edge. Yet the first
impressions of an observant American in England—of our old friend the
sentimental tourist—stir up within him such a cloud of sensibility
that while the charm is still unbroken he may perhaps as well dispose
mentally of the greater as of the less. I have been playing at first
impressions for the second time, and have won the game against a
cynical adversary. I have been strolling and restrolling along the
ancient wall—so perfect in its antiquity—which locks this dense little
city in its stony circle, with a certain friend who has been treating
me to a bitter lament on the decay of his relish for the picturesque.
“I have turned the corner of youth,” is his ceaseless plaint; “I
suspected it, but now I know it—now that my heart beats but once
where it beat a dozen times before, and that where I found sermons in
stones and pictures in meadows, delicious revelations and intimations
ineffable, I find nothing but the hard, heavy prose of British
civilisation.” But little by little I have grown used to my friend’s
sad monody, and indeed feel half indebted to it as a warning against
cheap infatuations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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