England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
Of the cathedral there is more to say; but just the spot I speak
of is the best standpoint for feeling how fine an influence in the
architectural line—where theoretically, at least, influences are
great—is the massive tower of an English abbey, dominating the homes of
men; and for watching the eddying flight of swallows make vaster still
to the eye the high calm fields of stonework. At another point two
battered and crumbling towers, decaying in their winding-sheets of ivy,
make a prodigiously designed diversion. One inserted in the body of
the wall and the other connected with it by a short, crumbling ridge of
masonry, they contribute to a positive jumble of local colour. A shaded
mall wanders at the foot of the rampart; beside this passes a narrow
canal, with locks and barges and burly watermen in smocks and breeches;
while the venerable pair of towers, with their old red sandstone sides
peeping through the gaps in their green mantles, rest on the soft
grass of one of those odd fragments of public garden, a crooked strip
of ground turned to social account, which one meets at every turn,
apparently, in England—a tribute to the needs of the “masses.” _Stat
magni nominis umbra._ The quotation is doubly pertinent here, for this
little garden-strip is adorned with mossy fragments of Roman stonework,
bits of pavement, altars, baths, disinterred in the local soil. England
is the land of small economies, and the present rarely fails to find
good use for the odds and ends of the past. These two hoary shells of
masonry are therefore converted into “museums,” receptacles for the
dustiest and shabbiest of tawdry back-parlour curiosities. Here preside
a couple of those grotesque creatures, _à la_ Dickens, whom one finds
squeezed into every cranny of English civilisation, scraping a thin
subsistence like mites in a mouldy cheese.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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