England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
above the pew-edges, look like rows of sleepy cherubs: every element in
the scene gave it a great spectacular beauty. They suggested too what
is suggested in England at every turn, that conservatism here has all
the charm and leaves dissent and democracy and other vulgar variations
nothing but their bald logic. Conservatism has the cathedrals, the
colleges, the castles, the gardens, the traditions, the associations,
the fine names, the better manners, the poetry; Dissent has the dusky
brick chapels in provincial by-streets, the names out of Dickens, the
uncertain tenure of the _h_, and the poor _mens sibi conscia recti_.
Differences which in other countries are slight and varying, almost
metaphysical, as one may say, are marked in England by a gulf. Nowhere
else does the degree of one’s respectability involve such solid
consequences, and I am sure I don’t wonder that the sacramental word
which with us (and, in such correlatives as they possess, more or less
among the continental races) is pronounced lightly and facetiously
and as a quotation from the Philistines, is uttered here with a
perfectly grave face. To have the courage of one’s mere convictions
is in short to have a prodigious deal of courage, and I think one
must need as much to be a Dissenter as one needs patience not to be
a duke. Perhaps the Dissenters (to limit the question to them) manage
to stay out of the church by letting it all hang on the sermon. Canon
Kingsley’s discourse was one more example of the familiar truth—not
without its significance to minds zealous for the good old fashion of
“making an effort,”—that there is an odd link between large forms and
small emanations. The sermon, beneath that triply consecrated vault,
should have had a builded majesty. It had not; and I confess that a
tender memory of ancient obligations to the author of “Westward Ho!”
and “Hypatia” forbids my saying more of it. An American, I think, is
not incapable of taking a secret satisfaction in an incongruity of
this kind. He finds with relief that even mortals reared as in the
ring of a perpetual circus are only mortals. His constant sense of the
beautiful scenic properties of English life is apt to beget a habit of
melancholy reference to the dead-blank wall which forms the background
of our own life-drama; and from doubting in this fantastic humour
whether we have even that modest value in the scale of beauty that he
has sometimes fondly hoped, he lapses into a moody scepticism as to our
place in the scale of “importance,” and finds himself wondering vaguely
whether this be not a richer race as well as a lovelier land. That
of course will never do; so that when after being escorted down the
beautiful choir in what, from the American point of view, is an almost
gorgeous ecclesiastical march, by the Dean in a white robe trimmed
with scarlet and black-robed sacristans carrying silver wands, the
officiating canon mounts into a splendid canopied and pinnacled pulpit
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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